When I returned to my garden after a week away, I was greeted by an unexpected sight: weeds had taken over! Before leaving, I had meticulously hoed the area but didn’t get a chance to clear away the debris.
Typically, the relentless August sun would wither any remaining weed bits, but my timing was off. A few hefty thunderstorms had rolled in during my absence, providing just enough moisture to keep those weed stalks from drying out.
Most of the severed weeds did meet their end, except for the tenacious purslane. This little plant, popping up in abundance, shrugged off my hoeing efforts. Purslane thrives with its drought-resistant, succulent leaves. Even tiny stem fragments can root themselves and flourish, thanks to its robust central taproot that springs back if not fully removed.
So, is purslane a problem or a perk in the garden? Well, it’s both! It can be a nuisance or a boon, depending on how you manage it. Knowing your enemies as well as your crops is crucial in gardening, and purslane is one common adversary.
But don’t write it off—purslane can also be grown year-round as a crunchy microgreen or enjoyed all summer as a leafy vegetable.
Cultivating purslane can be tricky, as it tends to spread eagerly. For a successful harvest, timing is everything—pick the leaves at the right moment for peak flavor. And once you’ve got a bunch, there are plenty of delicious ways to use them. Let’s explore how to make the most of this versatile green.
An Introduction to Purslane
Purslane, scientifically known as Portulaca oleracea, pops up worldwide, thriving in various environments from lush gardens to the cracks of city sidewalks. This hardy plant is a member of the Portulacaceae family, widely recognized for its resilience and ability to adapt.
It’s believed to have originated in regions like North Africa or the Middle East and had spread across Europe and North America long before modern times. Today, you’ll find purslane naturalized almost everywhere, growing during the warmest months, thanks to its remarkable drought resistance.
Known also by names like pigweed, little hogweed, and redroot, purslane features succulent, reddish stems and small yellow flowers that bloom briefly on sunny mornings. It’s a historical favorite, cultivated for over 4,000 years both as a food source and for medicinal purposes.
Despite its benefits, purslane can be a persistent weed, particularly in vegetable plots and among row crops like cotton and sugar beets, where it competes fiercely for space and nutrients.
Whether it’s peeking through your lawn or sprouting alongside plantains and dandelions, purslane is a common yet remarkable plant that combines historical significance with modern-day resilience.
Common Purslane Identification
Common purslane is a vibrant plant, sporting fleshy red stems and glossy oval leaves, both packed with over 90% water. It bursts into life with tiny yellow blooms and can regenerate even from stem fragments.
This hardy summer annual produces minuscule, glossy black seeds about 1 millimeter across, which can stay dormant in the soil for decades, anywhere from 20 to 40 years.
These seeds spring to life once the soil warms up above 25°C, ideally at 30°C. Surprisingly fast, purslane can start producing seeds just three weeks after sprouting, with each plant potentially churning out over 200,000 seeds.
In one corner of the garden, purslane thrives uniquely, forming a lush mat where other weeds have been hoed away, monopolizing the space. It belongs to the Portulaceae family, which also includes the ornamental wingpod purslane (P. umbraticola) and moss rose (P. grandiflora), primarily grown for their striking blooms rather than culinary or medicinal uses.
The perennial wingpod features green, rounded leaves and yellow flowers atop reddish stems, while the annual moss rose, a desert dweller, flaunts spiky leaves and blooms in a spectrum of colors.
Purslane itself resembles a miniature jade plant and is entirely edible—leaves, stems, flowers, and seeds alike can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Its leaves offer a unique taste—slightly citrusy and salty with a peppery, juicy crunch similar to arugula.
Its charming yellow flowers, complete with five petals and vibrant yellow stamens, blossom from midsummer to early fall. When pollinated, these flowers swiftly turn into a bounty of tiny seeds.
As a quick-growing, herbaceous annual, purslane spreads out with multiple smooth, reddish stems from a single taproot, covering areas up to 3 feet in diameter. Depending on moisture levels, it can grow low or stretch up to 16 inches tall. The water-storing leaves are fleshy, spoon-shaped, and clasp directly onto the reddish-tinted stems without any petioles.
Flowers bloom abundantly in the right moisture conditions, opening their petals to the midmorning sun and closing by early afternoon, revealing a bundle of seeds when mature. Despite attracting pollinators, purslane mainly self-fertilizes, ensuring a continual seed supply with minimal external help.
Is Purslane Invasive?
Purslane might just surprise you—it’s technically considered an invasive weed. Originating from India and China, this hardy plant has made its way across all continents. It’s incredibly adaptable, thriving in various environments and reproducing at an impressive rate.
Purslane can sprout roots from any part of its stem where leaves typically grow, and its seeds are capable of germinating after decades dormant in the soil. What’s more, it doesn’t even need pollination to produce seeds. This plant loves moisture but is also remarkably drought-resistant.
But does “invasive” always mean unwanted? In my experience, purslane spreads quickly and can dominate a garden if not kept in check. However, labeling a plant as invasive when it’s also edible gives it a new perspective. To me, “invasive edible” translates to “plenty of food.” Isn’t that a good thing?
Monty Don once said, “Some plants become weeds simply by virtue of their success rather than any other factor. You merely want less of them.” Not everyone shares my enthusiasm for this nutritious green, though. The United States Department of Agriculture classifies it as a “noxious weed,” and its cultivation is restricted in some areas.
However, don’t be too quick to dismiss it. Purslane is gaining recognition as a “superfood,” making appearances in upscale dining and farm-to-table eateries nationwide. So, depending on your local regulations, it might be worth giving this robust plant a chance in your culinary adventures
Why You Might Want to Keep Purslane in Your Garden
Purslane, often dismissed as a pesky weed, actually packs a punch with its garden benefits. Here’s why keeping it under control in your garden can be a smart move:
Culinary Benefits
Purslane has been a staple in global cuisines for centuries, originally introduced to this continent over 500 years ago by Europeans unaware of the consequences of bringing foreign plants to new lands. You’ll find it thriving in farm fields, gardens, and wild landscapes alike.
I discovered its culinary uses quite by accident when someone mentioned that the purslane overtaking my garden was actually edible. After tasting it for the first time, my perception of it completely changed.
Not only can you enjoy purslane raw in salads—where it adds a crisp texture and a pleasant flavor—but it’s also great in cooked dishes. Whether stir-fried or tossed into a soup or stew, purslane lends a thickening effect to broths thanks to its mucilaginous quality.
Nutritionally, purslane is a powerhouse. It stands out for its high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, rivaling sources traditionally found in fish and flax seeds. It’s packed with vitamins A and C, along with minerals like calcium, iron, magnesium, and potassium.
This plant is also rich in antioxidants, making it a valued addition to a health-conscious diet. While it’s incredibly beneficial, those prone to kidney stones should note its high oxalate content, similar to spinach, and enjoy it in moderation.
Used historically as an ointment for burns and even as poultry feed to lower egg cholesterol, purslane’s versatility extends beyond the kitchen.
Today, I snack on it during garden weeding sessions, and incorporate it into my meals just like spinach, using it in everything from salads and smoothies to stir-fries and omelets. Just a heads up—before adding new items to your diet, it’s wise to consult with your physician.
Natural Groundcover Wonder
Purslane’s invasive nature isn’t all bad—it thrives close to the ground, spreading into a lush carpet that effectively blocks out other weeds. This natural groundcover helps maintain cooler, moister soil, acting like living mulch.
However, it’s important to keep it in check to prevent it from overwhelming your other plants. I make it a habit to trim purslane regularly, especially around taller veggies like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, ensuring it supports rather than smothers my garden.
Rich Source of Organic Material
Thanks to its rapid growth, purslane is a goldmine for generating compost material. Gone are the days when I needed to source organic waste from elsewhere—purslane provides all I need, right from my backyard.
Just remember, when adding purslane to your compost, make sure it’s a hot compost pile. This step is crucial as it kills off any lingering seeds, stopping purslane from popping up unwanted in your garden beds.
Purslane doesn’t just cover your soil or bulk up your compost—it also competes minimally with vegetable crops for water and nutrients, making it an eco-friendly alternative to chemical herbicides.
Researchers are even exploring its potential as a natural weed suppressant for food crops. By managing it wisely, purslane can be more of a gardening ally than an enemy.
Propagating Purslane
You can propagate purslane in several ways, including from seeds, stem cuttings, divisions, or transplants. Finding seeds or plants locally might be a bit of a challenge, though.
Seeding Purslane
Kickstarting your garden with purslane seeds is a smart move. Once established, a single purslane plant can produce over 50,000 seeds! You won’t need to buy seeds again, especially if you opt for cultivated varieties. These are designed to grow upright and have larger leaves, and you can find their seeds from numerous sellers.
While you might stumble upon seeds for wild varieties online, I’d advise caution. Wild purslane can be invasive, overwhelming your garden with its prolific seed production. If you’re curious, try a cultivated type instead—it’s less likely to spread uncontrollably.
When planting, wait until the frost has cleared and the soil warms up to about 60°F. Sprinkle the seeds on moist soil and press lightly—don’t bury them, as they need light to germinate. In about a week to ten days, you’ll see sprouts. Let them grow a bit, then thin the seedlings to about eight inches apart.
You can start seeds indoors too, about three weeks before the last frost. Once they’ve got a set of true leaves, and it’s frost-free outside, they’re ready to move outdoors. Don’t forget to acclimate them to outdoor conditions by gradually increasing their sun exposure over a week.
Propagating from Stem Cuttings
Purslane’s robust spreading isn’t limited to its seeds. Stem cuttings can also form new plants, making propagation a breeze—or a challenge if it starts to take over. To propagate, cut a six-inch stem from an existing plant. Strip the leaves from the bottom half and plant it in potting soil, ensuring half of the stem is buried.
Keep it in a spot with bright, indirect light and maintain moist soil. In about a week, your cutting should start to root firmly in the soil. Alternatively, you can plant one-inch stem pieces directly in the garden, just a quarter-inch deep. New plants will usually start to emerge in a few weeks.
Transplanting Made Easy
Transplanting purslane is straightforward. Simply dig it up with a trowel, keeping the roots and stems intact. Plant it in a new hole, no deeper than it was originally, and backfill with soil. Keep in mind that purslane can regrow from any part left in the ground, so you might see new sprouts where it was previously planted.
Growing Purslane
Purslane thrives in the sunshine, so make sure to plant it where it’ll get plenty of direct light. If you’re aiming for a burst of blooms, however, a spot with a bit of afternoon shade can boost its flowering potential.
This resilient plant loves the heat—places near brick walls or concrete, where other plants falter, make perfect homes for purslane as it revels in temperatures above 70°F and can handle heat up to 100°F.
Don’t worry too much about soil quality with purslane; it’s famously unfussy, growing just as happily in the gaps of a sidewalk as in a garden bed. For optimal growth, choose an average, well-draining soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5.
Despite its ability to grow in less than ideal soil conditions—from nutrient-rich muck to dense clay—it does best in warm conditions and will need regular watering, although it’s quite drought-tolerant.
When planting purslane in your vegetable garden, you can start from seed and expect to harvest in about 6-8 weeks. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil and space seedlings 4 to 6 inches apart.
You can harvest the entire plant or cut back the stems to just two inches above the crown to encourage regrowth, which provides a continuous supply of edible leaves throughout the summer.
Purslane is also easy-going when it comes to feeding; a little compost at planting time does the trick, and it doesn’t require frequent fertilization. Overwatering is a no-go for this succulent, as it prefers drier conditions.
To check if it’s time to water, a simple finger test works—stick your finger into the soil, and if it feels dry up to your first knuckle, it’s watering time. Remember, water at the soil level to prevent fungal issues.
To manage its growth and prevent it from overtaking your garden, trim purslane back to two inches above the soil line or harvest it completely before it blooms. Adding an inch of organic mulch like wood chips in midsummer can also help control its spread by blocking the sunlight necessary for seed germination.
For those with limited space or to prevent its spread, container growing is an excellent option for purslane. And if you’re into microgreens, purslane makes a tangy, juicy option that grows fast on a sunny windowsill.
Just use a flat, wide container filled with at least half an inch of potting mix, sprinkle the seeds, and keep the soil moist. You’ll be ready to start snipping microgreens in just a couple of weeks!
Choosing the Right Purslane Varieties
When you’re browsing for purslane at your local nursery, you’ll likely come across a couple of popular types. ‘Gruner Red’ and ‘Goldberg’ are favorites among gardeners and are often readily available. However, watch out for plants labeled as ornamentals, as these might have been treated with chemicals not suitable for eating.
Here’s a quick rundown of some common purslane varieties you might find:
- Common Purslane: This standard variety sprawls low to the ground and can spread as much as 18 inches. It’s the kind you might have noticed creeping around your garden before.
- Golden Purslane: A bit more refined, this cultivar sports tender, yellow-green leaves and stands about 10 inches tall at full growth.
- Goldgelber Purslane: Fast-growing, this variety reaches its full spread of 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall in just 26 days.
- Gruner Red Purslane: Notable for its pinkish stems that contrast with its thick, green, oval leaves, this type grows up to 12 inches tall.
Managing Pests and Disease
Purslane is quite the resilient herb and usually avoids most pests and diseases. However, keep an eye out for a few potential troubles:
Purslane Blotchmine Sawfly
Look out for the sawfly larvae known as Schizocerella pilicornis, which burrow through the leaves, leaving dark, blotchy marks. These pests can devastate an entire crop. They morph into pale, yellow larvae that go underground for pupation. The adult sawflies, dark and about half an inch long, have a brief lifespan of just a day, making them hard to catch.
They breed multiple generations each year and use purslane exclusively as their host. You might spot these in hemp fields too, where purslane often grows wild.
If you notice larvae or their damage, manually remove them, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants, squash any damaged leaves to kill the larvae, or remove them altogether. Inviting parasitic wasps into your garden could also help control these pests.
Portulaca Leafmining Weevil
Another pest, the Hypurus bertrandi weevil, has larvae that tunnel through the leaves, causing significant damage. The adults nibble on the leaves, stems, and seed pods but aren’t as destructive as the larvae.
Common purslane is their sole host. Found often in fruit orchards, you can control these with Spinosad, an insecticide best applied at night when the insects are most active. Encouraging parasitic wasps like Diglyphus isaea to your garden can also be beneficial in managing these weevils.
Fungus – Black Stem Rot
This is the primary disease that affects purslane, usually due to overwatering or a damp environment. Signs include black lesions on stems that might spread to the leaves. To combat this, use sulfur or copper-based fungicides, or for mild cases, apply neem oil regularly to keep the fungus at bay.
Essential Tips for Harvesting and Preserving Purslane
Harvesting Tips for Garden Freshness
You’ll be ready to start picking your plants around 50 days after planting those seeds. Did you know the time you choose to harvest affects the taste? If you head out in the morning, you’ll find the leaves have a sharper, more tart flavor due to higher malic acid levels.
Prefer something sweeter? Evening picks have less acid, giving the leaves a milder taste. Why not try harvesting at different times to see which flavor you like best?
When it’s time to harvest, just grab your scissors, snip what you need, and stash it somewhere cool right away. Whether you cut a single stem or go for a big chop, make sure to leave at least 2 inches of the plant above the soil.
This way, it can regrow—perfect for continuous harvesting. Speaking of which, if you’re planning a large salad, why not trim the whole plant? Just remember to leave several inches at the base for regrowth. With good care, you can enjoy up to three harvests from each plant annually.
- A Quick Safety Note
If you’re picking purslane in the wild or buying ornamental varieties, watch out—they might have been treated with chemicals. When in doubt, it’s best to skip eating them.
Keeping Your Greens Fresh
To keep your harvested leaves and stems fresh, wrap them in a cotton cloth or pop them in a plastic bag in the fridge’s crisper drawer. They’ll stay fresh for about a week, even longer if you skip washing them before refrigeration.
Got more greens than you can use? Drying them is a great option. Dried purslane works wonders as a thickener in soups or desserts. Just remove the leaves from the stems, spread them in a single layer on a tray, and dry them at 135°F using a dehydrator or oven until they’re brittle. Once dry, you can crush them into a powder to jazz up your soups and smoothies.
Guide to Cooking with Purslane
Purslane’s mild flavor makes it a versatile addition to a variety of dishes. Whether you’re tossing it into a salad with lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers, or pairing it with eggs and fish, it complements many ingredients beautifully. I’m a big fan of pickled purslane myself.
To whip up a quick batch, simply chop the leaves, pack them into a jar, and cover them with a boiling vinegar brine—a blend of apple cider vinegar, water, sugar, and pickling spices is my go-to.
Seal the jar and let it chill in the fridge for about a week. The pickled leaves are a tasty addition to potato salads or can be used as a topping on open-faced mackerel sandwiches.
Fresh or sautéed, purslane works wonders in soups too. I particularly love adding it to a chilled cucumber purslane soup during those hot summer days. Or, stuff some fresh leaves into trout and roast with butter and lemon for a delightful meal.
When winter rolls around, and my home-grown purslane microgreens are thriving, I toss them into a grain salad with pomegranate seeds and cooked barley for a fresh touch.
Cooking purslane right is key—either eat it raw or cook it thoroughly. Partial cooking can leave it with a slimy texture, akin to okra. These days, I’ve been incorporating wild purslane into my meals more frequently. It’s packed with nutrients, including an impressive amount of omega-3 fatty acids—actually five times more than spinach.
You can enjoy purslane simply by adding it to your salads or sandwiches. Both the stems and leaves are edible, and just 3.5 ounces make up one serving. The flavor of purslane is slightly tart and salty, which intensifies under hot, dry conditions due to its unique photosynthesis process, capturing carbon dioxide at night to conserve moisture.
For a delightful breakfast, try sautéing mushrooms or onions in coconut oil, add purslane right before the eggs, and season with sea salt and pepper. If you’re into pickling, don’t discard those stems!
They can be cut, packed into jars with onions, covered with a homemade brine, and preserved through water-bath canning. There are many recipes online for pickling purslane, each offering a unique twist on this nutritious plant.
Battling Common Purslane in Your Garden
Dealing with common purslane can be tricky, as chopping it up with a hoe might just cause this stubborn weed to grow back from its fragments. A more effective approach is to remove the whole plant and either burn it or add it to your compost heap.
Laying down a combination of thick black plastic or a layer of straw over newspaper can also block this weed from taking over your backyard garden.
When it comes to larger areas, herbicides might be necessary. For instance, mesotrione (often sold as Tenacity) is great for preventing purslane in newly seeded cool-season lawns. In your garden beds or landscaped areas, consider pre-emergent options like isoxaben or indaziflam to stop purslane before it starts.
For existing lawn invasions, a mix of selective herbicides such as 2,4-D, dicamba, mecoprop, and carfentrazone can be your best bet, particularly in the early growth stages of the weed.
Quick Tips to Keep Purslane in Check:
- Tackle it early—use a hula or hoop hoe to disrupt its growth when it’s young.
- Make regular garden patrols part of your routine to spot any new invaders.
- Pull out purslane before it blooms, or try solarization by covering the soil with a clear plastic sheet to scorch the weed with concentrated sunlight.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch (at least 3 inches) around your plants to suppress weed growth.
- Get down and dirty by weeding by hand, making sure to extract the roots before the plants flower and ensuring you remove as much of the plant as possible.
While purslane might find a welcome spot in your home recipes, remember to clear it out from community garden plots to keep the peace with your fellow gardeners.
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