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How to Grow And Care For Juicy Blackberries in Your Backyard

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Looking back, I wish I’d realized just how simple it is to grow juicy blackberries right in your own backyard. Growing up, I would gear up in a long-sleeved shirt, jeans, gloves, and boots for a blackberry-picking adventure amidst the peak of summer’s heat.

What’s amusing is that no one pushed me into it; I was entirely self-motivated, all for the sweet payoff of my mom’s homemade blackberry pie or cobbler—memories and flavors that remain as vivid and delightful as ever.

Picking those berries was never a walk in the park. The blistering summer sun and the ever-persistent thorns that somehow penetrated our thick gear were just part of the challenge.

The protective clothing was essential as my brother and I braved poison ivy-laden thickets in search of those delectable fruits, always wary of the critters we might disturb.

For those who adore all things blackberry—be it jam, cobbler, pie, or glaze—knowing that fresh blackberries have a limited season can be disheartening.

Purchasing them from a trusted local grower can also dent your wallet since, although relatively easy to cultivate, blackberries require considerable effort to grow and harvest sustainably, without resorting to harsh chemicals.

But why settle for just a few pints when you could have gallons for your canning, baking, and snacking needs? That’s why I’ve decided to grow my own, avoiding a hefty bill while indulging in the joy of harvesting ripe berries straight from the garden.

Curious about starting your own blackberry bushes? Keep reading, and I’ll share how you can enjoy these tasty treats from your own space.

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Growing Blackberries at Home

Adding blackberries to your garden is a treat for any home grower! Not only are they scrumptious and packed with nutrients, but they’re also fairly simple to cultivate, making them a great choice for both novice and seasoned gardeners.

Plant Attributes
Common Name Blackberry, dewberry
Botanical Name Rubus allegheniensis
Family Rosaceae
Plant Type Perennial fruit, shrub, groundcover
Mature Size 1-10 ft. tall, 2-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial, dappled
Soil Type Well-drained, fertile, loam or sandy loam
Soil pH Slightly acidic (5.5-6.5)
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3-8 (USDA), depending on cultivar
Native Area North America, South America, Europe, Asia

Blackberries come in three main types—trailing, erect, and semi-erect. Each has unique characteristics:

  • Trailing blackberries require a support system like a trellis or arbor to thrive, as their canes grow long and need lifting off the ground.
  • Erect blackberries stand tall and firm, often without needing support. These plants spread by shooting up new canes from their roots.
  • Semi-erect blackberries feature thick, vigorous canes that grow from the plant’s crown and are usually the last to bear fruit each season.
Growing Blackberries at Home
Credit: wikipedia

The life cycle of blackberry canes is fascinating. They start as primocanes, growing their first year without bearing fruit. By the second year, these become floricanes, blooming and producing berries before dying off. Although the plants can live for decades, individual canes only last two years.

If you’ve ever picked wild blackberries, you know they can be a prickly challenge. Luckily, cultivating them at home can be less painful thanks to thornless varieties now available, which are easier to handle and just as fruitful.

Blackberries are versatile, thriving in climates with warm days and cool nights. They can be seen in many U.S. gardens, and whether eaten fresh, baked, or preserved, they offer a delightful burst of flavor. The plants are self-fruitful, meaning you only need one to start your berry bounty.

Ready to grow blackberries? They’re as rewarding to cultivate as they are to eat. You’ll find yourself picking these juicy, plump berries every few days once they ripen. Remember, regular pruning keeps the plants tidy and productive. Get your garden ready, and you might just stir up some sweet memories with every berry you pick!

For Starters

Did you know that growing blackberries in your own backyard is not just possible, but actually quite easy? Blackberries thrive on biennial canes while their roots are perennial, meaning they come back year after year.

During the first year, these canes focus solely on growth, without producing any fruit. Come the second year, they burst into bloom, bearing delicious fruits and continuing to spread.

One of the best things about blackberries is their ability to adapt. They have shallow roots, which allows them to thrive even in poor, rocky soils. It’s quite common to see wild thorny brambles sprawling across mountainsides or encroaching the edges of yards.

Interestingly, these hardy plants can propagate themselves if left unchecked—a little wild magic right in your garden!

Now, planting blackberries is a breeze. Start with a couple of canes, and before you know it, you could have a backyard bursting with berries. Though letting your garden turn into a blackberry jungle is an option (not recommended if you prefer the thornless kind!), planting controlled varieties can yield a manageable and fruitful harvest.

While you can propagate blackberries from seeds, starting from canes or nursery plants is far simpler and faster. I highly recommend going for nursery-grown plants. This ensures that you know exactly what type of blackberries you’re getting—free from disease and capable of producing large, sweet fruits.

Trust me, having started with thornless varieties from a local nursery, I can vouch for their convenience during harvest time!

having started with thornless varieties from a local nursery
Credit: Musc3 on reddit

So, why not dive into the rewarding world of growing blackberries? Plant once, and you’re set for years of lush, fruitful harvests that are just a backyard away. And while wild blackberries hold a nostalgic charm, the ones from your garden can be just as flavorful, with a lot less hassle.

Planting Blackberries

  • When to Plant Blackberries

The best time to plant blackberries is during their dormant period. Early spring is ideal because it gives the plants a chance to establish themselves before the growing season.

In colder climates, it’s wise to wait until spring to avoid the risk of frost damaging hybrid varieties. Remember, you don’t need multiple blackberry plants for pollination since they are self-fertile.

  • Choosing the Right Spot

Selecting the perfect location is crucial for your blackberries. Choose a sunny spot as blackberries thrive in full sunlight, leading to higher berry yields. The soil should be fertile and well-drained; consider enhancing it with organic matter like compost. It’s important to avoid areas where wild blackberries grow to prevent disease transmission.

Also, steer clear of sites where nightshade family crops (like peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes) or strawberries have recently grown, as they share common pests and diseases with blackberries.

  • Preparing Your Site

Preparation can start as early as a year before planting. Clear the area of weeds and enrich the soil with organic content. For sites with poor drainage, consider raising your planting bed to ensure the roots do not sit in water.

Blackberries need a slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). If space is tight or soil conditions are not ideal, growing blackberries in large containers can be a great alternative.

  • Planting Your Blackberries

When it’s time to plant, choose a disease-free blackberry variety that’s well-suited for your region. Plant as soon as the ground is workable in spring. Dig a hole big enough for the roots, and set up a trellis or wire system for support right away.

Space your plants appropriately depending on their type: erect varieties about 2-3 feet apart, semi-erect 5-6 feet apart, and trailing varieties 4-6 feet apart. Plant them a bit deeper than they were in the nursery, water thoroughly after planting, and trim the canes of bare-root plants to about 6 inches to promote healthier growth.

Planting Blackberries
Credit: crunchybaker

Blackberry Plant Care Guide

To ensure your blackberries thrive, choose a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil. Ideal planting times are during the cooler months of fall and winter, setting each plant about 3 to 4 feet apart. Using pine straw or shredded pine bark as mulch not only retains soil moisture but also keeps those pesky weeds at bay.

It’s crucial to prune the old canes once they’ve fruited to promote the growth of new ones and to prevent diseases. You can find healthy blackberry plants at your local nursery or favorite online store.

  • Sunlight Needs

Blackberries need plenty of sunlight to flower and bear fruit effectively. While they can manage in partial sun, they truly prosper under full sunlight, needing about 6 to 8 hours daily. Under less sun, you might notice a decrease in yield and slower berry ripening.

  • Soil Requirements

These berries flourish in moist, organically rich soil that’s slightly acidic (pH between 5.6 and 6.5). If your garden soil is heavy with clay, work in some organic matter to enhance its structure. For areas with poor drainage, consider raising the soil level and adding compost or aged manure to improve conditions.

  • Watering Regimen

Blackberries do have some drought tolerance, but for a bountiful harvest, ensure they get about 1 to 2 inches of water weekly, especially during the fruiting period and in hot, dry conditions. Watering is less critical in winter or when the plants are not active.

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  • Temperature and Climate Adaptation

These plants are versatile, growing well in USDA Zones 5-9. Some varieties are bred for extreme cold or warmth, so select one that matches your climate’s conditions. If your winters are particularly harsh, protecting the plants with a layer of straw can help them survive.

  • Fertilizing

Feed your blackberries lightly with a high-nitrogen fertilizer like blood meal as they start to grow in spring, and follow up with another application a few weeks later.

In the following years, a slow-release complete garden fertilizer applied in early spring and post-harvest in summer supports their growth. Alternatively, a yearly refresh of mulch can supply sufficient nutrients for less maintenance-intensive care.

  • Supporting Trailing Varieties

Trailing blackberries will need a support system; a two-wire trellis works well. Position a top wire about five to six feet high with a second wire 18 inches below. This setup helps manage the plants by training new canes to grow orderly below the fruit-bearing older canes, making maintenance and harvesting much easier.

Trailing blackberries need old fruiting canes removed after harvest, but it’s wise to delay this until the canes have significantly died back, allowing them to transfer nutrients back to the plant’s base.

Erect blackberries, on the other hand, produce sturdier, shorter canes and benefit from summer tip pruning to boost the next year’s fruit yield. For those growing semi-erect blackberries on a Double T Trellis, summer pruning helps manage height and encourages branching.

Trailing blackberries
Credit: Utah State University Extension
  • Pruning Practices

In the first year, there’s no need to prune your blackberry plants. From the second year onwards, simply cut back the old canes that have already fruited each fall. This practice clears the way for new growth in the spring, setting the stage for another bountiful harvest.

Blackberries are low-maintenance in terms of fertilization; an annual top dressing of compost around each plant is usually sufficient.

To maintain a productive and manageable blackberry patch, prune your plants twice a year. In early spring, trim the top few inches off new growth to encourage branching, which leads to more berries.

Then, in late summer, remove any canes that have already fruited as they won’t produce again the following year. This not only keeps your patch tidy but also helps in disease prevention.

Remember, blackberries produce fruit on canes that are in their second year, known as old wood. Once these canes have fruited, it’s best to cut them back to save the plant’s energy for new growth and next year’s fruiting canes. You can choose to do this pruning in late summer or wait until fall when it’s cooler.

In the spring, you might also want to tip prune—snipping the tips of fruiting canes to encourage more lateral growth. This technique helps your plants become bushier and more fruitful.

prune your blackberry plants
Credit: theseasonalhomestead
  • Pollination and Potting

Blackberries are mostly self-pollinating, meaning you don’t need multiple cultivars to produce fruit, although one is enough. If garden space is limited or the soil isn’t ideal, container planting is a great alternative. Erect varieties adapt well to containers, needing only a 20- to 30-gallon pot to accommodate their deep roots.

However, container-grown blackberries require more frequent watering and, in colder climates, some winterizing to protect the roots—wrapping the container in bubble wrap should do the trick until warmer days return in spring.

Harvesting Blackberries

Great job getting your blackberry canes planted and tending them through their first year by pruning away the flowers. Now, in their second year, your efforts are paying off as the canes are laden with plump blackberries—time to celebrate!

As the berries mature, they’ll transition from green and hard to red and a bit softer, eventually becoming a deep, almost black purple that’s fairly soft to the touch. It’s essential to pick them once they’ve reached this final color stage because blackberries won’t ripen any further once harvested.

Plus, they tend to rot quickly on the cane if left after ripening—often within just a couple of days, especially in hot or rainy weather. To keep ahead, check your bramble daily.

When picking, handle the berries gently. Ripe blackberries should easily come away from the cane with a soft tug, avoiding any harsh pulls that might disturb other berries or damage the plant.

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Optimal Harvesting Techniques

Look for a change in the berry’s sheen as a sign of ripeness—from shiny to a dull black. Shiny berries are typically tart and flavorless, while dull black ones are sweet and ready to eat.

Here’s how to pick them:

  • Hold the berry between your thumb and index finger. A ripe berry will detach smoothly from the stem without needing to pull hard.
  • Harvest every four days or so, depending on how quickly the berries ripen and the weather conditions.
  • Always pick during the cooler parts of the day, ideally in the morning after the dew has evaporated but before the heat sets in. This helps keep the berries fresh.
  • Once picked, place the berries in a cool, shaded spot and refrigerate them promptly.
Harvesting Blackberries
Credit: Southern Region Small Fruit Consortium

Storing Your Blackberries

Blackberries are delicate and typically only last a few days in the refrigerator. For longer storage: Consider canning, preserving, or freezing them. You can use the same techniques for freezing blackberries that you would for blueberries.

Storing Your Blackberries
Credit: Practical Self Reliance

Remember, the quicker you chill them post-harvest, the longer they’ll stay fresh. Alternatively, freeze them to extend their shelf life and enjoy your harvest in the months to come.

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Propagating Blackberries

Thinking about expanding your blackberry patch by grabbing some free suckers? It might sound like a great, cost-effective idea, but be cautious. Transplanting suckers directly from another location can introduce viruses, pests, or harmful pathogens into your garden.

Additionally, be aware that many blackberry varieties are covered by plant patents, making it illegal to propagate them without permission.

However, if you have non-patented blackberry plants, propagating them can be straightforward and rewarding. The simplest method is to transplant suckers, which are young shoots that emerge from the plant’s roots.

This approach is generally more successful than growing blackberries from seeds, which not only requires a lengthy cold stratification period but also yields plants that may not retain the desired characteristics or fruit quality of the parent.

To start, gently unearth the soil around the base of a sucker to expose its roots. Using a clean, sharp knife or a pair of pruners, sever the sucker from the main plant, making sure to keep its roots largely intact.

Plant the sucker at the same depth it was growing before, in a new spot that matches its growing conditions. After planting, water it well to keep the soil moist, helping your new blackberry plant establish itself successfully.

Propagating Blackberries
Credit: Sara’s Kitchen Garden

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Blackberries are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases that can hinder their growth and fruit production. To prevent these, start with healthy plants from trusted nurseries and avoid planting near wild brambles, which often harbor diseases.

Stink bugs and raspberry crown borers are common pests, and diseases like anthracnose, stem blight, and crown gall can also pose a threat.

For disease management, it’s wise to select cultivars that are resistant to troublesome conditions like orange rust and double blossom, which impact flowering and fruiting.

Practices such as removing infected plants and applying fungicides are crucial in managing these diseases. Keeping your garden free from wild brambles can reduce disease risks, as they can bring anthracnose, Botrytis fruit rot, and other issues.

The blackberry crown borer, resembling a yellow jacket, is a significant insect threat to blackberries, damaging plants by tunneling into their crowns. Management involves removing affected canes and applying insecticides. Lesser pests like sap beetles and cane borers require different strategies, such as prompt berry harvesting and physical removal.

Effective blackberry care involves monitoring for signs of trouble like yellowing leaves or stunted growth, indicative of diseases like Verticillium wilt or Phytophthora root rot, which thrive in poorly drained soils. Ensuring good drainage and removing diseased plants are key preventive measures.

For optimal fruit production, maintain your blackberry plants by weeding, mulching, and providing sufficient water, especially in dry conditions. To protect your harvest from birds, consider using bird netting, though it can be cumbersome to manage. Harvesting early in the day can also help beat birds to the berries.

If your blackberries fail to bloom, check for diseases and ensure they’re not in overly shady spots. Most blackberry canes bloom in their second year, so patience is often needed with new plants.

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Blackberry Varieties

If you’re planning to add some blackberries to your garden, it’s smart to start by looking into varieties that thrive in your growing zone. Here’s a quick rundown of some popular types:

  • Erect Thornless Blackberries: Varieties like ‘Navaho’ and ‘Arapaho’ stand tall without the need for support and, best of all, they won’t snag your clothes or scratch your hands.
  • Erect Thorny Blackberries: For a more traditional choice, consider ‘Cherokee,’ ‘Brazos,’ ‘Shawnee,’ or ‘Cheyenne.’ These varieties are sturdy and vigorous.
  • Semi-erect Thornless Blackberries: The ‘Black Satin’ offers a lush, sprawling habit with the bonus of no thorns.
  • Trailing Blackberries: The ‘Olallie’ is perfect for covering ground or draping over walls and fences.

We’ve had great success with the ‘Natchez Thornless,’ a vining type, and the upright ‘Apache Erect.’ To find what will work best in your locale, touch base with nearby nurseries and greenhouses.

It’s always a win to opt for a local variety accustomed to your soil type. Plants adapt to their environment, and local varieties tend to flourish with less fuss.

When it comes to supporting your plants, we’ve used a grapevine trellis system for our vining blackberries, but a simple arbor or fence could also do the trick. For upright types, a little support can prevent the canes from bending under the weight of the fruit.

A basic setup using wooden posts with wire or rope strung at two and four feet high can guide your plants’ growth effectively.

Among specialty hybrids, the ‘Marionberry’ or Marion blackberry is a standout. Developed in Oregon, this berry is a cross between ‘Chehalem’ and ‘Olallieberry,’ and is known for its rich flavor and mid-summer ripening.

Other noteworthy varieties include:

  • ‘Hall’s Beauty’ and ‘Columbia Giant’: Both are thornless, bush-type blackberries with substantial fruit and a manageable size.
  • ‘Navaho’: This variety doesn’t need a trellis due to its upright growth habit and offers a hearty summer crop.
  • ‘Prime-Ark Freedom’ and ‘Triple Crown’: These are ideal for warmer climates and provide a generous late-season harvest.

The University of Arkansas has been at the forefront of developing new blackberry varieties that are not only thornless but also boast improved disease resistance. These self-pollinating varieties simplify the planting process since you can get by with just one plant.

Choices like ‘Kiowa,’ ‘Ouachita,’ and ‘Osage’ offer different sizes, flavors, and ripening times to suit various preferences and conditions.

Whether you’re a novice gardener or a seasoned grower, these blackberry varieties provide a delightful range of options for enhancing your garden’s bounty.

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