Picture this: you’re at the farm supply store, and suddenly you hear it—that unmistakable symphony of soft peeping.
You peek into the stock tank, and there they are: dozens of fluffy baby chicks, tumbling over each other like tiny cotton balls with legs. Your heart melts.
Before you know it, you’re walking out with a chirping box on the passenger seat, grinning like you’ve just won the lottery.
Sound familiar? Raising baby chicks is one of the most rewarding experiences in backyard farming, but it’s also a responsibility that requires preparation and know-how.
Whether you’re dreaming of fresh eggs for breakfast or simply want to add some feathered friends to your homestead, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know—from setting up your first brooder to watching your chicks graduate to their outdoor coop.
By the end of this guide, you’ll have the confidence and tools to raise a thriving flock of chickens that will reward you with eggs, entertainment, and maybe even a few laughs along the way.
Before You Bring Chicks Home: Are You Really Ready?
Before you fall head over heels for those adorable fluff balls, take an honest inventory of your situation. Chickens aren’t just a weekend hobby—they’re a daily commitment that lasts for years.
The Reality Check
The first 6-8 weeks are the most intensive period, requiring you to check on chicks at least twice daily—morning and evening without fail. Miss a water refill on a hot day, and you could lose your entire brood.
As they mature into adult chickens, expect to spend 15-30 minutes daily on feeding, watering, egg collecting, and coop maintenance. Early morning wake-ups and evening coop closings become part of your routine, rain or shine, vacation or not.
Many cities and suburbs now allow backyard chickens, but restrictions vary wildly. Some areas limit you to three hens, while others allow a dozen. Some require coops to be set back 25 feet from property lines. A few still ban chickens entirely.
Check your zoning laws before you invest a dime, and don’t forget to ask about roosters—most urban areas prohibit them due to noise complaints. The $50 permit fee now beats the $500 fine later.
Chickens typically live 5-8 years, and hens slow down egg production dramatically after 2-3 years. Are you prepared to keep them as pets when they’re eating expensive feed but laying only sporadically? This question matters more than most beginners realize.
What Will This Actually Cost?
Let’s talk numbers, because “chicks are only $3.50 each” is misleading.
If you’re starting from scratch with three baby chicks, expect initial costs around $200-250: brooder or stock tank ($80), heating plate or lamp ($15-80), waterer and feeder ($15), bedding ($6), starter feed ($25), and miscellaneous supplies.
The good news? Most equipment is reusable year after year.
Ongoing monthly costs during the brooding period run about $20-30 for feed and bedding, plus electricity for heating (roughly $9-15/month for a heating plate, $40+ for a heat lamp).
Once chickens are adults living in their coop, feed costs average $15-25 per month for a small flock of 4-6 hens, depending on whether you supplement with kitchen scraps and allow free-ranging.
Choosing Your Chicks: Where and What to Buy
Local farm supply stores offer the easiest option for beginners during “chick days” each spring. You can examine the chicks before buying, they’ve already survived the critical first 72 hours, and you avoid shipping stress entirely.
Ask which day shipments arrive and return 2-3 days later—this ensures the chicks are healthy and vigorous.
Online hatcheries like Murray McMurray, Meyer Hatchery, and Cackle Hatchery provide the widest breed selection and ship day-old chicks directly to your post office.
Most require minimum orders of 10-15 chicks to maintain warmth during shipping, though some offer smaller minimums for an extra fee. The trade-off is increased stress and potential losses during transit.
Local breeders are ideal if you can find them. Chicks haven’t endured shipping stress, and you can build a relationship with someone experienced. Many breeders are happy to mentor new chicken keepers—that knowledge is worth its weight in gold.
How Many Chicks and Which Breeds?
Chickens are intensely social flock animals—never raise just one. For beginners, 3-6 chicks hits the sweet spot between manageable and sustainable.
Plan for reality: if buying straight-run (unsexed) chicks, approximately half will be roosters. With sexed pullets, expect about 90% accuracy. Some chicks won’t survive despite your best efforts—losing 5-10% is normal and heartbreaking.
For reliable egg production and friendly temperaments, stick with these tried-and-true breeds.
- Rhode Island Reds are hardy workhorses producing large brown eggs consistently while handling cold weather beautifully.
- Plymouth Rocks (especially Barred Rocks) are gentle, calm birds excellent for families with children.
- Australorps hold world records for egg production while maintaining docile personalities.
- Easter Eggers add color to your egg basket with blue, green, or pink shells—kids especially love the daily rainbow hunt.
👉 Discover more Chickens That Lay Blue Eggs: Breeds, Care & Production Guide
Avoid fancy breeds like Polish, Silkies, or Cornish Cross as your first chickens. While beautiful or fast-growing, they often have specific care requirements or health challenges that frustrate beginners.
Save the exotic breeds for year two when you know what you’re doing.
Setting Up the Perfect Brooder
Think of a brooder as a nursery for your chicks—a safe, warm space where they’ll spend their first 6-8 weeks of life. Getting this right from the start prevents countless problems down the road.
Choosing Your Brooder Container
Your brooder needs to grow with your chicks. What seems spacious for day-old fluff balls becomes cramped quarters by week three.
Start with 0.5 square feet per chick for the first two weeks, then plan for 1-2 square feet per chick by weeks 4-8. For five chicks, that means a brooder at least 2 feet by 3 feet.
- Galvanized stock tanks are the gold standard—sturdy, predator-proof, and lasting for decades. A 2×3 foot tank runs about $80 but handles small flocks perfectly.
- Large plastic storage totes work well for 3-4 chicks if you choose opaque bins (chicks feel more secure) and cut a ventilation window in the lid covered with half-inch hardware cloth.
- DIY wooden brooders built from plywood offer customization but require more initial effort.
Whatever you choose, walls must be at least 18-24 inches tall. Chicks can jump and flutter by their second week, and escapes lead to chilling, injury, or death from household pets.
Skip those flimsy disposable plastic panel brooders sold in starter kits—they collapse within days and offer zero predator protection.
Location Matters More Than You Think
Your brooder needs to live somewhere draft-free yet well-ventilated (contradictory, I know), warm enough that heating costs don’t bankrupt you, secure from pets and wild predators, and close enough that checking on chicks twice daily isn’t a trek.
Garages, spare bathrooms, mudrooms, and insulated sheds work well.
Here’s what nobody tells you: chicks produce an astonishing amount of dust. That fine powder coats everything within 15 feet and can irritate human lungs with prolonged exposure.
Keep brooders out of kitchens, bedrooms, and main living areas. Your future self will thank you.
Ventilation is critical but often overlooked. Chicks produce ammonia from their droppings, and poor air circulation leads to respiratory problems. The brooder needs fresh air exchange without creating drafts at chick level.
If using a plastic tote, that lid window does double duty. For stock tanks, position them where natural air movement occurs without direct drafts blowing on the chicks.
Bedding: The Foundation of a Clean Brooder
Good bedding absorbs moisture, controls odor, and prevents leg problems by giving chicks secure footing.
Pine shavings are the traditional choice—absorbent, widely available, and inexpensive at about $6 for a compressed bale.
Use large flake shavings, not fine sawdust which chicks might eat. A 3-4 inch layer provides cushioning and absorption. Never use cedar shavings, which contain oils harmful to developing respiratory systems.
My personal favorite is pine pellets sold as horse stall bedding. These compressed pellets absorb heat from warming sources, smell wonderful, break down into sawdust only when wet (keeping dust minimal), and are incredibly cost-effective.
A 40-pound bag costs about $6 and lasts weeks. The pellets also make cleaning easier since you can scoop out wet spots while leaving clean pellets in place.
Avoid newspaper (too slippery when wet, causing leg problems), fine sawdust (respiratory irritant), cat litter (toxic if ingested), and hay or straw (molds quickly in damp conditions).
Spot-clean droppings daily and completely replace bedding 2-3 times weekly initially. As chicks grow and produce more waste, you may need daily full changes.
A clean brooder prevents respiratory illness and keeps your house from smelling like a barnyard—no small consideration when the brooder lives in your garage.
Keeping Your Chicks Warm: Getting Temperature Right
Temperature management is absolutely critical—more chicks die from being too cold than any other cause in the first week. Unlike adult chickens who regulate body temperature with their feathers, naked baby chicks depend entirely on external heat.
Chicks need to start at 90-95°F during their first week, then you’ll reduce temperature by 5 degrees weekly: 85-90°F in week two, 80-85°F in week three, 75-80°F in week four, 70-75°F in week five, and finally 65-70°F by week six.
By 6-8 weeks, fully feathered chicks can handle normal temperatures and move outside if weather cooperates.
👉 Learn about Winter Care for Chickens: Tips to Keep Your Flock Healthy & Happy
Heat Sources: Modern Solutions vs. Traditional Methods
Heat lamps have been the traditional choice for generations—a 250-watt red infrared bulb in a reflector dome, suspended 18-24 inches above the brooder floor. They’re inexpensive to purchase (around $15-20) and easy to adjust by raising or lowering.
The red bulb is preferable to white because it’s less stressful for chicks and makes blood invisible, reducing pecking behavior.
But here’s the uncomfortable truth: heat lamps cause hundreds of coop fires annually. They must be secured so they cannot possibly fall into bedding, positioned away from all flammable materials, and never rested on brooder walls or hung with makeshift systems.
The constant 250-watt energy consumption also runs your electric bill up by $40+ monthly. If you use a heat lamp, keep a spare bulb on hand—if it burns out at 2 AM, chicks can die before morning.
Heating plates represent the modern, safer alternative. These flat panels radiate warmth from underneath, mimicking a mother hen.
They consume only 14-60 watts (around $9 monthly in electricity), pose virtually no fire risk, allow natural day/night rhythms, and let chicks self-regulate by going underneath when cold.
Quality brands like RentACoop and Rural365 cost $40-80 upfront but last for years. The peace of mind is worth every penny.
Reading Your Chicks’ Behavior
Forget the thermometer—your chicks will tell you everything you need to know.
- Too cold: Chicks huddle tightly together directly under the heat source, chirping loudly and continuously. They may pile on top of each other (which can lead to suffocation). Raise the heat immediately.
- Too hot: Chicks spread out to the furthest corners away from heat, panting with beaks open, wings held away from bodies, appearing lethargic. Reduce heat immediately.
- Just right: Chicks move freely around the entire brooder, eating, drinking, playing, and resting in various locations. They sleep peacefully, either cuddled together loosely or scattered. Soft, occasional peeping is normal—constant loud chirping signals distress.
- Critical tip: Position your heat source on one side of the brooder, not centered. This creates temperature zones, allowing chicks to choose their comfort level. Place food and water away from the heat source so they don’t overheat.
The First Hour: What to Do When Chicks Arrive
Whether you’ve driven home from the feed store or picked up a chirping box at the post office, the first hour is crucial. Have your brooder completely set up and pre-warmed to 90-95°F before chicks arrive—don’t make them wait in a box while you scramble.
Gently remove chicks from their shipping container one at a time. As you place each chick in the brooder, dip its beak into the water. The chick will swallow reflexively, realize water is there, and remember.
Do this with 3-4 chicks, and they’ll teach the others. This simple action prevents dehydration deaths.
Let the chicks explore and settle for an hour or two before worrying about food. They’ve absorbed their yolk sac before hatching, which provides nourishment for up to 48 hours. Water is the immediate priority.
Watch their behavior—are they finding the heat source? Moving around? If they seem cold or lost, guide them gently toward warmth.
After they’ve had water and settled a bit, sprinkle a small amount of chick starter directly on the brooder floor near the feeder. Chicks instinctively peck at small objects, and this helps them discover food. Within a few hours, most will be eating and drinking like pros.
Minimize handling for the first 48 hours. Let chicks recover from travel stress, learn their environment, and establish eating and drinking patterns. Quick checks are fine, but save the cuddles for day three.
Food and Water: Nutrition Essentials
Water: The First Priority
Water is more important than food initially. Dehydration kills quickly, while chicks can survive 48-72 hours without food thanks to absorbed yolk nutrients.
Use chick-specific waterers with narrow drinking areas to prevent drowning. Those simple gravity waterers with a quart jar and shallow base work perfectly.
For the first 3-5 days, add clean marbles or small pebbles to the water base—a clumsy chick stepping on another’s head while drinking can cause drowning, and the marbles prevent submersion.
Change water at least twice daily, more if you notice bedding or droppings contaminating it. Rinse and refill completely rather than just topping off. Elevate waterers on small blocks to keep bedding out while ensuring chicks can still reach them easily.
Many chicken keepers boost their chicks with supplements during the first week. Simple sugar water (1 tablespoon per quart) helps chicks recover from shipping stress and provides quick energy.
Some add electrolyte powders like Poultry NutriDrench, which contains vitamins derived from molasses and supports immune development.
If you want to get fancy, try 1 quart water mixed with 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 teaspoon plain elderberry syrup, and 10 drops Poultry NutriDrench—the natural vitamins give chicks a strong start.
But honestly? Plain, clean, room-temperature water works fine if you maintain excellent brooder cleanliness.
Feed: What and How Much
Chick starter feed is specially formulated with 18-20% protein and particle size appropriate for tiny beaks. Feed this from day one through 8 weeks old. Keep it available 24/7—chicks eat small amounts frequently throughout the day.
The medicated versus non-medicated debate trips up new chicken keepers. Medicated feed contains amprolium, which helps prevent coccidiosis (a deadly parasitic infection common in young chicks). It’s not an antibiotic.
If your chicks were vaccinated for coccidiosis at the hatchery, skip medicated feed—it cancels the vaccine. If unvaccinated, medicated feed offers insurance if cleanliness slips. Both work fine with proper brooder hygiene.
Use chick-sized feeders that prevent waste and contamination. Trough feeders or gravity feeders with narrow openings work well.
Provide enough feeder space so all chicks can eat simultaneously—overcrowding leads to aggressive pecking and ensures some chicks don’t get enough food.
Don’t be shocked by how much baby chicks eat. They’ll consume about 10 pounds of starter feed per bird in their first 10 weeks. That adorable fluff ball is growing into a full-sized chicken in just eight weeks.
Grit and Treats: Special Considerations
Chickens use grit—tiny pebbles stored in their gizzard—to grind food since they lack teeth. However, commercial chick starter crumbles dissolve with the water chicks drink, so they don’t need grit if that’s all they eat.
Only offer chick grit (much smaller than adult grit) if you’re giving treats beyond their regular feed. Place a tablespoon in a small dish every few days, and chicks will consume what they need.
Resist the temptation to treat your chicks too early. Their digestive systems are delicate, and they need balanced starter feed for optimal growth.
After one week old, you can introduce tiny amounts of safe treats: finely chopped fresh parsley (excellent for development), tiny pieces of scrambled egg, finely chopped greens, small bits of watermelon or berries, or a few dried mealworms.
Treats should never exceed 10% of their diet—think enrichment, not nutrition.
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Lighting: Getting Day and Night Right
Lighting requirements change as chicks grow, but this critical aspect often gets overlooked. For the first 48 hours, provide continuous lighting at 10 lux intensity (about 60-watt bulb for a small brooder) so chicks with weak eyesight can find food and water easily.
After two days, chicks need darkness to rest and establish natural sleep patterns—provide at least 8 hours of darkness daily, gradually increasing to 10 hours by week four.
If using a red heat lamp, it provides both heat and light, so you’ll need to manage light hours with a timer or by manually turning off additional lights.
If using a heating plate, add a separate light on a timer for the appropriate hours. By week eight when chicks move outside, they’ll naturally sync with daylight hours.
Natural day/night cycles are crucial for healthy development. Chicks kept under constant bright light become stressed, aggressive, and prone to pecking behaviors. They also don’t learn when to roost at night, creating problems when they move to the coop.
Daily Care and Health Monitoring
Your Daily Routine
Establishing a consistent routine helps you spot problems quickly and keeps chicks healthy.
Morning check (10 minutes):
- Observe chick behavior—are they active and alert?
- Check water level and cleanliness, refill as needed
- Check food level, refill if low
- Spot-clean any large accumulations of droppings
- Verify heat source is working properly
Evening check (10 minutes):
- Repeat morning observations
- Top off food and water for overnight
- Clean or replace soiled bedding
- Adjust heat source if needed based on chick behavior
Weekly deep clean (30-45 minutes):
- Remove all chicks to a safe container
- Completely replace all bedding
- Wipe down brooder walls and floor
- Sanitize feeders and waterers with diluted vinegar
- Return chicks to fresh, clean environment
Common Health Issues and Solutions
Pasty butt
Pasty butt is the most common affliction in baby chicks, especially those who’ve been shipped. Droppings stick to and seal the vent (their one hole for everything), preventing them from pooping. Left untreated, this is fatal within 24 hours.
Check every chick’s bottom at least once daily for the first week. If you see dried poop stuck to their fluff, soak a soft cloth in warm water and gently hold it against the area for a minute or two until the droppings soften.
Wipe clean very carefully without pulling—you can tear skin. Pat dry and return the chick to the warm brooder immediately. Pasty butt often results from shipping stress, which is why electrolyte water helps prevent it.
Coccidiosis
Coccidiosis is a parasitic intestinal infection—the number one killer of chicks after the first week. Symptoms include bloody or mucous-filled droppings, hunched posture with fluffed feathers, lethargy, weight loss, and reduced eating and drinking.
Prevention through cleanliness is far easier than treatment. Keep the brooder dry and clean, prevent overcrowding, and maintain appropriate temperatures to reduce stress.
Medicated feed helps prevent coccidiosis, and Corid (amprolium) added to water treats active infections, though veterinary consultation is wise.
Lethargy/weakness
A lethargic or weak chick that suddenly seems sleepy, won’t eat or drink, or sits with eyes closed while others are active needs immediate attention.
First, verify temperature—cold chicks become lethargic before dying. If temperature is appropriate, try offering a drop of honey or sugar water on the beak for quick energy, followed by a drop of Poultry NutriDrench if you have it. Sometimes a quick energy boost saves a life.
Picking and aggression
Picking and aggression escalates quickly when chicks peck at red spots (blood), injured birds, or shiny objects. Causes include overcrowding, excess heat, too much light, or boredom.
Solutions: ensure adequate space (remember that 1-2 square feet per bird by week four), use red heat bulbs that make blood invisible, reduce light intensity after the first week, and provide entertainment like small mirrors, low perches, or supervised outdoor time.
Handling, Socialization, and Safety
The friendliest adult chickens are those handled frequently as chicks, but balance socialization with avoiding stress on baby birds.
After the first 48-hour settling period, begin gentle regular handling. Sit near the brooder and let chicks come to you. Offer a handful of feed so they associate you with good things.
When picking up a chick, cup both hands around it gently, securing wings against the body without squeezing. Support their feet so they’re not dangling. Keep them close to your body for security.
Keep sessions to 5-10 minutes unless you’re in a warm room—young chicks chill quickly away from their heat source. If a chick starts chirping loudly, she’s cold or scared—return her immediately.
Teach children critical safety rules: sit while holding chicks (prevents injury from drops), wash hands with soap before and after every interaction, never kiss chicks (salmonella risk), and respect when chicks need rest.
Children are surprisingly good at chick care when given clear guidelines and responsibility.
Talk to your chicks regularly. Use consistent words or sounds when you approach with treats—”Here, chick-chick-chick!” or whatever phrase you choose.
Adult chickens who learned your voice as chicks will come running when called, which is incredibly useful when you need to herd them back to the coop at dusk.
- Salmonella awareness:
Some chickens naturally carry salmonella bacteria without getting sick themselves. Always wash hands thoroughly with soap and water immediately after touching chicks or anything in their brooder.
Don’t eat or drink around the brooder. Don’t let children under five handle chicks without direct supervision. While salmonella cases from backyard chickens are relatively rare, good hygiene prevents problems.
Week-by-Week Development: What to Expect
Weeks 1-2: The Vulnerable Stage
Day-old chicks look impossibly fragile because they are.
Covered in soft down that offers minimal insulation, they spend these first weeks eating frequently, drinking often, sleeping constantly (sometimes hilariously—they literally fall over mid-step when sleep overtakes them), and slowly discovering their world.
Their eyes are bright, coordination is questionable, and they’re learning to associate you with food and safety.
By day seven, you’ll notice the first tiny wing feathers emerging. Chicks become slightly more coordinated and confident, venturing further from the heat source for short explorations.
Their personalities start showing—you’ll identify the bold explorers and the cautious watchers.
Watch especially closely during this period for pasty butt, signs of chill (constant huddling and loud chirping), and dehydration. The mortality rate is highest in these first two weeks, so observation is your best tool.
Weeks 3-4: The Awkward Phase
True feathers start replacing down, often in bizarre patches that make chicks look like they’ve had terrible haircuts. Pin feathers (new feathers still in their protective sheaths) emerge along wings, back, and tail.
Chicks become significantly more active, eating and drinking substantially more, and testing their jumping and fluttering abilities. Flight feathers develop enough that they can hop up onto low perches or even escape brooders with low walls.
Appetites explode during this phase—expect to refill feeders twice daily now. Chicks become more socially interactive, establishing early pecking order through gentle sparring and chest bumping. It looks concerning but rarely involves injury at this age.
Add a small roosting perch to the brooder now—a few twigs or wooden dowels arranged 4-6 inches off the floor. Chicks love practicing perching, and this skill prevents them from sleeping in nest boxes later.
On warm days (above 65°F), you can begin supervised outdoor adventures in a secure pen, letting them discover grass, bugs, and dirt for 15-30 minutes.
Weeks 5-6: Almost Grown
Chicks are mostly feathered now, with only small patches of down remaining around their heads and necks. They look like miniature adult chickens, complete with developing combs and wattles.
Personalities are fully evident—you’ll notice bold chicks, shy chicks, bossy chicks, and everything in between. This is when individual quirks emerge, and you’ll start recognizing each bird.
Body temperature regulation improves dramatically as feathers provide insulation. You can reduce supplemental heat to 65-70°F or even eliminate it if room temperature is stable.
On nice days, chicks can spend entire afternoons outside in secure pens, though they should still have access to shelter. Watch the weather—sudden cold snaps can still stress chicks who aren’t fully feathered.
Begin transitioning feeding schedules to match their outdoor routine. Adult chickens eat most heavily in the morning and evening, so encourage this pattern now.
This is also when you might switch from chick starter to starter/grower feed if using a brand that offers it, though many keepers simply continue starter through week eight.
👉 Unlock the Benefits of Fermented Chicken Feed for Healthier Hens
Weeks 7-8: Graduation Approaches
Fully feathered adolescent chickens can regulate body temperature and are ready to move to their outdoor coop permanently.
They’re gangly with disproportionately large feet, and combs may start reddening in early-developing breeds. Appetites remain enormous—these teenagers are all growth.
The transition to outdoor living should happen gradually if possible. Let them spend several days acclimating to the coop while still having access to the brooder at night, then move them permanently on a mild weather day.
Watch their behavior in the new environment—some adapt instantly, while more timid birds need reassurance.
This is also when you’ll start identifying roosters definitively if you bought straight-run or had sexing errors. Roosters develop larger, redder combs earlier, longer tail feathers with pointed tips, thickened legs with spur bumps, and may attempt their first pathetic crows.
Decide now what your rooster policy is—keeping multiple roosters leads to fighting, and most urban regulations prohibit them entirely.
👉 Understanding Rooster Crows: More Than Just a Morning Alarm
Moving to the Outdoor Coop: The Big Transition
Is Your Coop Ready?
Before chicks ever hatch, your coop should be fully built, cleaned, and ready. If you’re scrambling to finish the coop while 7-week-old chicks outgrow their brooder, you’re doing this backwards. Preparation prevents panic.
Your coop needs 3-4 square feet per bird inside with 8-10 square feet per bird in the outdoor run—more is always better. Chickens kept in cramped conditions develop behavioral problems like feather picking, egg eating, and aggression.
Roosting bars should be flat boards 2-3 inches wide (more comfortable than round dowels) positioned 12-18 inches off the floor initially for young birds.
Space bars at least 12 inches apart so chickens aren’t pooping on those below. One nest box per 3-4 hens is sufficient, filled with clean pine shavings or straw.
Ventilation might be the most misunderstood aspect of coop design. Chickens produce significant moisture from breathing and droppings, and poor ventilation leads to respiratory disease.
Install vents high on the walls near the roof where warm, moist air naturally rises. These vents must stay open year-round but shouldn’t create drafts directly on roosting birds. Many coops fail this basic requirement, causing chronic health issues.
Predator protection is non-negotiable. Use half-inch hardware cloth (not chicken wire, which predators can tear through) over all openings including windows and vents. Install spring-loaded latches or carabiners on doors—raccoons can open simple hooks.
Bury hardware cloth 12-18 inches underground around the perimeter or lay it flat as an apron extending outward to prevent digging predators. Cover runs with netting or hardware cloth to deter hawks and climbing predators.
Everything eats chicken—raccoons, foxes, coyotes, hawks, owls, snakes, weasels, opossums, neighborhood dogs and cats. Invest in security now or pay with heartbreak later.
👉 Here’s How to Keep Mice and Rats Out of Your Chicken Coop: Effective Tips & Strategies
The Actual Move
Choose a mild weather day for the permanent move when temperatures are above 55°F. Move chicks in the evening so they spend their first night in the new coop and wake up considering it home.
Transfer food and water containers they recognize to provide continuity and familiarity.
For the first night, you might need to physically place chicks on the roosting bars. Chickens have strong instincts to roost at night (sleeping on elevated perches), but young birds sometimes forget in new environments.
Gently lift each bird and set her on the roost after dark. By the second or third night, they’ll usually figure it out themselves.
Check on them after full dark to ensure they’re all inside and safe. In the morning, watch how they explore their new space. Some chicks transition seamlessly, others take a few days to feel secure.
Don’t free-range them yet—let them establish the coop as home base for at least 5-7 days before allowing wider access, or they may not return.
Integrating New Chicks with Existing Flocks
If you already have adult chickens, introduction requires patience and strategy. Adult hens view newcomers as threats and will establish pecking order aggressively—sometimes violently.
Never introduce chicks younger than 8 weeks to adult hens. The size difference invites serious injury or death. The “see-but-not-touch” method works best.
For 10-14 days, keep young chickens in a separate pen within or adjacent to the main run where everyone can see and hear each other but cannot make physical contact. This familiarization period reduces aggression when you finally merge them.
When you’re ready for first meetings, choose a day when you can supervise for several hours. Open the dividing barrier during late afternoon feeding time—food distracts from territorial behavior.
Some scuffling is normal—squawking, chest bumping, chasing, and occasional pecks establish hierarchy. Watch for relentless attacking of one specific bird or any that draws blood. If things escalate to that level, separate and try again the next day.
Multiple feeding and watering stations scattered around the run reduce competition. Territorial hens guard single resources, but they can’t guard three separate feeders simultaneously. This ensures young birds can access food and water without harassment.
Full integration takes 2-4 weeks. The noise and drama will settle as everyone finds their place in the pecking order.
Once the young birds are approximately the same size as adults, conflict decreases significantly. Patience is your most valuable tool during this process.
Feeding Through Adolescence and into Adulthood
The Feed Transition Schedule
At 8-18 weeks old, switch from chick starter to grower feed containing 16-18% protein. This supports continued growth while reducing the excess protein young birds no longer need.
Some brands offer starter/grower combinations that work from day one through laying age, simplifying your feed storage.
At 18-20 weeks—just before hens begin laying—transition to layer feed with 16% protein plus added calcium. This calcium is crucial for strong eggshells but harmful to younger birds whose kidneys can’t process the excess.
Watch for signs of impending lay: combs and wattles redden and enlarge, birds squat when you approach (a mating posture), and hens investigate nest boxes obsessively.
Once hens start laying, offer free-choice oyster shell or crushed, baked eggshells in a separate container from feed.
Hens will consume exactly the calcium they need to produce strong shells. Roosters and non-laying birds won’t eat it, so this system works beautifully for mixed flocks.
👉 Read the Ultimate Guide to Feeding Your Backyard Laying Hens for Maximum Egg Production
Natural Foods and Kitchen Scraps
Adult chickens thrive on variety beyond commercial feed. Offer vegetable peels, fruit, leafy greens, cooked rice or pasta, and stale bread in moderation. Avoid onions, raw potato peels, avocado, chocolate, moldy or spoiled food, and anything salty or sugary.
Free-ranging chickens find insects, worms, grubs, and even small mice—this is their favorite food and provides excellent protein.
If you garden, they’ll eagerly accept oversized zucchini, overripe tomatoes, thinned seedlings, pulled weeds, and carrot tops. The variety improves egg quality and reduces feed costs.
Remember the 10% rule: treats and scraps should never exceed 10% of total diet.
Too many treats reduce consumption of balanced feed, causing nutritional deficiencies that manifest as poor feathering, thin eggshells, and reduced laying. Think of scraps as beneficial supplements, not diet staples.
Your Journey Begins
Raising baby chicks transforms you from someone who buys eggs at the grocery store to someone who understands where food comes from.
You’ll develop patience waiting for that first precious egg. You’ll build skills in animal husbandry and observation. You’ll discover that chickens have distinct personalities and can be surprisingly affectionate—yes, some chickens genuinely enjoy being held and petted.
Challenges will arise. You might lose a chick despite your best efforts, and that heartbreak is real. Your feed store might accidentally sell you a rooster disguised as a hen. You’ll clean more poop than you ever imagined.
But these challenges pale compared to the joy of watching your chicks grow, the satisfaction of collecting eggs from birds you raised from day-old fluff balls, and the pure entertainment value of chickens being their hilarious, curious, dinosaur-descendant selves.
Take it one day at a time. Don’t obsess over perfection—chicks are more resilient than you think. Trust your observations, adjust when needed, and enjoy the incredible experience of raising these remarkable birds.
Welcome to chicken keeping. Your mornings will never be the same—and that’s a very good thing.
Ready to start your flock? What questions do you still have about raising baby chicks? Share in the comments below, and don’t forget to follow for more practical homesteading guides!
