You’ve probably heard the buzz (pun intended) about honey bees and monarch butterflies struggling to survive—and it’s not just them. Tons of pollinators, like moths, beetles, and even wasps, are facing tough times.
Why? Well, it boils down to habitat loss, pesticide misuse, diseases, and the effects of climate change. The good news? You can help—right in your own garden!
Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or just a few pots on your balcony, creating a pollinator-friendly space can make a real difference. By choosing the right flowers and offering a welcoming environment, you’ll attract all kinds of helpful insects—and your garden will thank you with vibrant blooms and a touch of wild beauty.
A few years back, my partner and I took on a fun challenge: we cleared out an acre overrun with invasive bittersweet plants and turned it into a sunny haven for pollinators.
Instead of going for the “wild meadow” look, we decided to craft a more polished garden that would still support bees, butterflies, and their friends. It took a bit of research (and a lot of digging—literally and figuratively), but the pollinators themselves guided us to the right balance.
If you’re ready to join the movement and make your garden a safe, thriving spot for pollinators, you’re in the right place. Whether you’re starting fresh or giving your current garden a makeover, these simple tips will help you create a buzzing, fluttering paradise. Let’s get started!
Learn How to Create a Bee-Friendly Garden: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners
Choosing the Perfect Spot for Your Pollinator Garden
When it comes to pollinator gardens, you’ve got plenty of options—after all, flowers have a knack for making any space feel magical. But here’s the real deal: pick a spot where you’ll actually enjoy it the most.
Think about the places you love to relax outside, like your back patio, deck, or front porch. Plant those blooms close by so you can kick back, soak up the view, and watch butterflies and bees flit around without even leaving your seat.
Now, let’s talk logistics. Sure, flowers can thrive in shade or sun, but if you’re planting with pollinators in mind, aim for sunny or partly sunny spots sheltered from the wind.
Butterflies, bees, and their insect buddies love basking in the sun, and many of their favorite wildflowers do best with plenty of light. Don’t overthink it, though—if you’ve got shade, there are plenty of pollinator-friendly plants that’ll thrive there too.
Need some inspiration? How about reclaiming that old garden bed you’ve been ignoring? Or tucking flowers around a shed (charming or not-so-charming, it doesn’t matter). A front walkway, a path winding through your yard, or even the base of a fruit tree are all great choices.
If you’re feeling bold, create a maze-like border filled with vibrant blooms. Walking through a narrow path surrounded by flowers, buzzing bees, and fluttering butterflies is an experience that sweeps you away from life’s daily grind.
When we built our own pollinator haven, we picked a sunny hilltop with enough space for a symmetrical layout. Picture this: a square garden with a small lawn in the center, flanked by wide planting beds and neat, narrow paths.
The close walkways weren’t just practical (weeding is a breeze with beds you can access from both sides); they also gave visitors a front-row seat to the beauty of the flowers and insects.
And wow, did it work. Within a couple of years, we found ourselves wandering through towering plants, immersed in a living, breathing world of color and movement. Butterflies danced overhead, hummingbird moths zipped by, and even a stray sunflower leaning into the path felt like a welcome embrace.
Still, something felt off. The whole garden was soft—lovely, sure, but it needed a bold edge to really shine. So we made a few upgrades: a floating doorway to mark the entrance, wooden boardwalks to replace the grass paths, and a clever design twist.
Instead of laying the boards flat on the ground, we dug them into the earth, dropping the pathways about 8 inches below the planting beds. It was extra effort, but now we’re eye-to-eye with the butterflies, and the garden feels like a whole new world.
How to Match Your Garden’s Conditions with the Right Plants
Figuring out the best plants for your garden starts with understanding your space. How much sunlight does your plot get? Is it bathing in 6+ hours of sun (full sun), soaking up 3–6 hours (partial sun), or barely catching rays with less than 3 hours (shady)?
And don’t forget to check the soil! Does it stay damp and squishy, or is it more dry and sandy? Maybe it falls somewhere in the middle? These factors make all the difference in choosing what to grow.
Native plant nurseries are a goldmine for this—they’ll usually group their plants into handy categories like:
- Full sun + wet soil
- Full sun + medium soil
- Full sun + dry soil
- Shade + wet soil
- Shade + dry soil
…and so on. Many even have online catalogs you can filter by sunlight and soil type—super convenient! You can also dig into your own soil (literally) to get a feel for what you’re working with. Is it loose and sandy, or heavy and clay-like? If you’re unsure, check out a local soil mapper for extra insight.
Now here’s the thing: don’t stress about perfect soil. Native plants thrive when you “plant the right plant in the right place.” That means working with what you’ve got—even if your soil seems awful.
In fact, overly fertile soil can make native plants grow tall and floppy, which nobody wants. The trick is finding plants that naturally love your conditions, cutting down on watering and headaches.
If you’re starting fresh with a lawn conversion, you’ll need to remove the grass and loosen the soil first. For raised beds or containers, you’ve got plenty of pre-made options, or you can DIY your own. Either way, adding nutrient-rich compost can give your plants a good start (but skip the heavy soil amendments—nature has your back!).
Choosing Native Plants
Why Native Plants Are a Game-Changer for Your Garden
Thinking about boosting your garden’s pollinator appeal? Native plants are your best bet. Here’s why: they’re like a VIP buffet for local bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
Since native plants and local wildlife have grown up together (evolutionarily speaking), they’re a perfect match. Plus, native plants are low-maintenance, thrive without pesticides, and naturally adapt to your area.
If you can’t find the exact native species, try a “nativar” – a cultivated variety that stays true to the original plant. While it’s okay to mix in a few non-natives, adding native perennials and shrubs will turn your garden into a magnet for pollinators and other wildlife.
Need proof? According to the Xerces Society, native plants attract four times more native bees and support three times as many butterfly and moth species compared to non-natives. They even offer better nutrition. For example, pollen from a native pussy willow packs 40% protein, compared to the 14% you’ll find in dandelion pollen.
When shopping for plants, find a nursery specializing in native species—they’ll guide you to plants perfect for your region. Make sure your choices are pesticide-free to keep your garden safe for pollinators.
If you’re on a budget, seeds are a cost-effective option but require patience. Plant them in fall or late winter to give them a head start. For quicker results, start with young plants from a nursery; they’ll attract pollinators in no time.
15 Wildflowers That Will Keep Your Pollinator Garden Buzzing All Year
- Wild Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana)
Wild strawberries are like little sparks of joy in early spring. Plant them as a ground cover, and they’ll spread out to suppress weeds—a win-win for your garden.
- Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)
These beauties are among the first flowers to bloom, often before spring fully arrives. They might even tempt a hummingbird or two to drop by.
- Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
With its long-lasting purple blooms and licorice-scented leaves, anise hyssop is a favorite for pollinators and gardeners alike. Bonus: it often blooms in its first year and can reseed itself.
- Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
You can’t miss the fiery orange flowers of butterflyweed. As a milkweed, it’s vital for Monarch caterpillars and a must-have for butterfly enthusiasts.
- Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
This cheerful yellow flower blooms non-stop through summer, even in its first year. It self-seeds generously, making your garden feel like a delightful surprise party.
- Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
This milkweed attracts Monarchs like a magnet. Plant it near your patio so you can enjoy the flurry of butterflies and watch caterpillars munching happily in late summer.
- Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Coneflowers are garden classics. Plant them in clusters for a stunning display that’s as beautiful as it is beneficial for pollinators.
- Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata)
These vibrant blooms will light up your garden from summer through fall, and bumblebees will thank you for it.
- Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
Tall, fluffy, and absolutely buzzing with life, Joe Pye weed is a pollinator favorite that brings a lush, meadow-like vibe to your garden.
- Meadow Blazingstar (Liatris ligulistylis)
Dubbed the “Monarch magnet,” this plant lives up to its name. You might spot several Monarchs clustered on a single bloom—it’s that irresistible.
- Western Sunflower (Helianthus occidentalis)
Unlike their more aggressive cousins, these sunflowers behave well in gardens. They’re an essential addition to any pollinator haven.
- Old Field Goldenrod (Solidago nemoralis)
Goldenrod’s glowing fall color is a standout, and this variety won’t overrun your garden.
- New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
Covered with pollinators in the fall, these deep purple blooms are a showstopper.
- Mistflower (Eupatorium coelestinum)
This long-blooming beauty is a Monarch favorite. It can spread quickly in moist soil, so keep an eye on it if your garden stays wet.
- Aromatic Aster (Aster oblongifolius)
When this aster blooms in late fall, it’s an explosion of color. Expect it to keep going strong into November.
Bonus: Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)
For something extra, try prairie dropseed. It’s a fantastic groundcover that adds texture and a breezy, meadow-like feel to your garden.
Provide Host Plants
Not all plants pull their weight in the grand ecosystem, and understanding which ones do can make a world of difference in your garden. Douglas Tallamy, a leading naturalist and author, has been championing this idea through his books like Bringing Nature Home and Nature’s Best Hope.
His message? Some plants, especially native ones, play a much bigger role in supporting wildlife. They’re the unsung heroes, hosting an impressive variety of moth and butterfly species that are crucial for feeding baby birds. Hungry chicks thrive on caterpillars, which are packed with protein and soft enough for their tiny beaks.
So, what should you plant to give nature a boost? Four powerhouses you don’t want to miss are goldenrods, asters, sunflowers, and Joe Pye weed. These plants aren’t just beautiful—they’re essential links in the food chain.
It’s easy to get distracted by flowers that attract butterflies, but don’t forget the bigger picture. If you want butterflies and moths to stick around, you’ve got to think about what their caterpillars eat. These insects are picky diners, often relying on specific plants to survive. For instance, Monarch butterfly caterpillars can only munch on milkweed.
Before you dive into garden planning, do a little research. Find out which butterfly and moth species call your area home and make sure you’re including the plants their caterpillars need to thrive.
Starting To Design a Pollinator-Friendly Garden
Forget the idea of a scattered wildflower meadow. Pollinators prefer efficiency—grouped plantings let them conserve energy while foraging. In our garden, we created clusters of herbaceous perennials with a mix of nectar plants and caterpillar hosts. Taller plants were paired with shorter ones for natural support, forming a dynamic, layered garden.
While we focused on native plants, we included a few non-natives that pollinators love. The result? A “pollinator plus” garden that blends beauty and biodiversity, providing a feast for local wildlife and joy for us.
Planting your garden
Thinking about starting a garden from seeds? Timing is key! Fall and late winter are the perfect seasons to get things rolling. In the fall, just scatter your seeds and cover them lightly with soil.
For late winter, try sprinkling seeds right over the snow. As the sun warms them up, they’ll settle into the snow, and when it melts, voilà—instant moisture to kickstart germination.
If you’re working with young plants instead of seeds, pay close attention to frost dates in your area. Planting too soon can spell trouble! Once the frost danger has passed, dig holes just big enough to fit the roots, then cover them up with soil or compost.
To give your plants a head start and keep those pesky weeds at bay, don’t forget to add a layer of mulch.
Grouping Plants: The Key to Attracting Pollinators
Pollinators love convenience, and who can blame them? Instead of hopping all over the garden for their next meal, they prefer a buffet of blooms all in one spot.
That’s why grouping your plants together—rather than scattering them randomly—can make your garden irresistible to bees, butterflies, and other helpful insects. For a more natural look, try arranging plants in flowing drifts instead of rigid rows.
To keep pollinators buzzing happily from early spring through late fall, you’ll need to provide a steady supply of nectar and pollen. Aim for at least three types of pollinator-friendly plants per season, ensuring their bloom times overlap so something’s always in flower as the seasons change.
Early spring blooms are especially vital for bumblebee queens, mason bees, and other species just waking up from winter.
Here’s another tip: Bees aren’t born knowing where to find food—they have to scout for it. Make their job easier by planting large, eye-catching clusters of the same species. Think of it like putting up a big, neon “All-You-Can-Eat” sign for pollinators!
Ideally, aim for groupings about a meter wide (or as close as your garden space allows). These bigger clumps are easier for pollinators to spot and reduce the distance they have to travel, which means they can gather more food in less time.
If you’re working with a smaller garden, no problem—just focus on fewer plant species but in larger clusters. Not only will this strategy attract more pollinators, but it also adds a bold, cohesive look to your garden design.
Picture groups of three butterfly weeds here, five over there, and maybe seven in another spot. This mimics nature’s way of creating concentrated patches of food, making your garden both beautiful and functional.
Why Flower Diversity Matters for Pollinators
Ever wonder why certain flowers always seem to have buzzing visitors while others don’t? It all comes down to how pollinators match up with flower shapes and sizes. Each type of pollinator has unique traits—like body size, tongue length, or strength—that determine which blooms they can feed from easily.
For instance, butterflies, with their long feeding tubes, love tubular or spurred flowers where they can reach the nectar tucked away inside. On the other hand, bumblebees and honeybees prefer flowers that fit their needs—big, open blooms like sunflowers make perfect landing spots for bumblebees, while honeybees often gravitate toward smaller flowers.
Some flowers get even more specific about their guests. Take closed bottle gentians, for example. Only bumblebees are strong enough to muscle past the tightly closed petals to get to the nectar inside.
That’s why including a mix of flower shapes—tubular, flat-topped, large, and small—is so important if you want to create a pollinator-friendly garden. A diverse selection not only supports a wider range of pollinators but also makes your garden visually stunning!
Don’t forget about color, either. Different pollinators are drawn to different hues. Bees are big fans of blue, purple, and yellow, while butterflies are all about reds, oranges, pinks, and purples. Moths, which often feed at night, prefer white or cream-colored flowers with a sweet fragrance.
Now, let’s talk about our native bees. They’re divided into two groups: generalists and specialists. About 80% are generalists, meaning they’re happy to forage on a wide variety of plants.
The remaining 20% are specialists, and they’ve evolved to rely on just one or a few specific plants. These bees often have unique adaptations that make them perfectly suited to their preferred flowers—like asters, dogwoods, or even spring ephemerals like trout lilies.
Here’s the great part: when you plant for specialists, the generalists benefit too, because they’re not as picky. So, by designing your garden with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, you’re supporting the entire pollinator community. And the payoff? A vibrant, buzzing garden full of life and beauty that helps our ecosystem thrive.
Pollinator Garden Design Tips
Here’s how you can make your garden a cozy, pollinator-friendly retreat:
Keep Pollinators Hydrated
Pollinators like bees and butterflies rely on water for more than just quenching their thirst. Bees use it to cool their hives, feed their young, and even soften crystallized honey. Butterflies? They’re after those minerals in water that are essential to their diet.
Want to help? Set up a safe watering station. Fill a shallow saucer or birdbath with water, and add some rocks or glass beads so they have a place to land without the risk of drowning. For butterflies, create a “puddling” spot by mixing damp soil, sand, and compost in a shallow dish—perfect for sipping up those vital minerals.
Build a Shelter for Rest and Nesting
Pollinators need more than just flowers—they need places to rest, nest, and survive the winter. Here are some easy ways to make your garden a haven:
- Rock piles: Great for ground-nesting bees and overwintering butterflies.
- Brush piles: Old branches or even Christmas trees can provide cozy spots for pollinators.
- Rotten logs: Cavity-nesting bees love to use holes in logs. Drill a few yourself to make their life easier!
- Fallen leaves: Leave them be! They’re like blankets for butterflies, caterpillars, and queen bumblebees in the colder months.
- Hollow-stemmed plants: About 30% of native bees nest in these natural cavities.
- Bare soil: Ground-nesting bees need patches of open, undisturbed soil for their burrows.
DIY Bee and Bug Homes
Want to get crafty? Build an insect house! Drill ¼-inch holes about 3 inches deep into untreated wood blocks or dead tree stumps. Or, buy premade options like nesting tubes made from bamboo or cardboard to attract mason bees. These thoughtful touches can turn your garden into a thriving hub for pollinators.
Transform Your Lawn into a Pollinator Haven
Let’s talk lawns. Sure, they’re nice for walking barefoot or hosting a picnic, but when it comes to helping pollinators? Not so much. If you’ve got patches of lawn you barely use, why not transform them into something that actually supports the environment—like a pollinator garden?
It’s easier than you think. Start small by gradually extending your garden beds year by year. This slow approach keeps things manageable and gives you time to enjoy the process.
Not ready to commit to full garden beds? Consider swapping out sections of grass with native groundcovers. They’re low-maintenance, look amazing, and offer food and shelter for pollinators.
If you’re feeling ambitious, you could even go big and turn part of your yard into a wildflower meadow. It’s a bold move, but the payoff—for you and the bees—is incredible.
Now, before planting anything, there’s one crucial step: getting rid of the grass. Seriously, don’t skip this part. Removing grass properly saves you a ton of time down the line—less weeding, fewer weeds sneaking in, and way less hassle with re-mulching.
Speaking of mulch—get ready to make it your best friend, at least for the first year or two. Wood chips or straw are both excellent options. Spread it around and between your plants to smother weeds and save yourself from hours of back-breaking weeding.
My favorite way to kill grass is by “sheet mulching.” Here’s how it works: a few months before planting (or better yet, the fall before), mark out the area for your new bed.
Then, lay down a thick layer of newspaper—about six sheets thick, overlapping generously. Top that off with straw to hold everything in place, and give it a good soak with water (or let the rain handle it).
You can use wood mulch instead of straw, but be careful. When you dig planting holes, make sure no mulch gets mixed into the soil—it’ll steal nitrogen from your plants as it breaks down. Straw is a bit more forgiving in this department, but either way, try to keep the planting holes clean.
Trust me, weeds can be relentless, but a good layer of mulch makes a world of difference. One tip: if you’re using free mulch, pick the freshest batch possible to avoid sneaky weed seeds tagging along.
Learn more about Weeding: Essential Tips for a Weed-Free Garden
Maintain your garden for pollinators
Skip the Winter Cleanup
Think of it as giving nature a helping hand while lightening your workload. By leaving your plants standing through the winter, you’re offering a cozy spot for pollinators to ride out the colder months.
Did you know many butterflies and moths spend the winter as chrysalises or cocoons attached to plant stems? Some smaller butterflies even hide out in seed pods! Native bees, too, hibernate in hollow stems or tiny soil cavities. If you cut back your plants in the fall, you’re essentially clearing out their winter homes.
Instead, hold off until spring when temperatures average above 10°C. That’s when the first bees start waking up. When you do trim, leave stems about 30 cm high—they’ll double as nesting spots for cavity-nesting bees. Scatter the cut stems around the garden for extra habitat—it’s a win-win!
Ditch Invasive Plants
Pollinators need diverse, native plants to thrive, and invasive species can throw the ecosystem off balance. Sure, you might spot pollinators visiting invasive flowers, but don’t be fooled—these plants form dense monocultures, crowding out native species and limiting food options for the rest of the season.
Take Asian honeysuckle, for example. It blooms briefly, offering food for a short time, but leaves pollinators hungry the rest of the year. Replacing invasive plants with native varieties ensures pollinators have a steady buffet from spring through fall.
Be Gentle with the Soil
Believe it or not, about 70% of native bees, including bumblebees, nest in the ground. They prefer sunny, sandy, well-drained spots, so digging or tilling your garden can disrupt their homes.
Instead, try planting densely to naturally suppress weeds while leaving small patches of bare soil for nesting. Avoid thick layers of mulch—they can block bees from burrowing. Oh, and if you spot an old rodent burrow? Leave it—it could be the perfect nesting site for bumblebees!
Say No to Pesticides
When it comes to managing pests, the key is to work with nature, not against it. Aphids munching on your plants might seem annoying, but they’re actually food for beneficial insects like ladybugs, hoverfly larvae, and lacewings.
Using pesticides might solve one problem but creates another by harming pollinators and other helpful critters. Even systemic insecticides, which soak into plant tissues, can contaminate nectar and pollen.
Instead, explore natural pest control methods like companion planting or encouraging predators that keep pests in check. And remember, a few chewed leaves are a sign your garden is part of a healthy ecosystem.
Discover 41 Best Plants to Pair with Marigolds for a Thriving Garden
The Easy 3 x 3 x 3 Method by Berit Erickson
Ever find yourself thinking, “I’d love to create a pollinator garden, but I have no idea where to begin?” Trust me, you’re not alone! I’ve heard this countless times from people wanting to support native wildlife but feeling unsure how to start.
Over the past seven years of planting for pollinators, I’ve refined a super-simple method that works wonders for beginners: the 3 x 3 x 3 system. Let’s dive in!
Why Every Plant Matters
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, here’s some encouragement: no matter how small your effort, every native plant you add makes a difference. Got space for just one pot on your balcony? Perfect. A tiny patch of soil by your apartment building? Amazing.
Or maybe you’re dreaming big and want to transform your entire yard into a biodiversity oasis. Whatever your starting point, you’re helping pollinators thrive while adding natural beauty to your space.
What Is the 3 x 3 x 3 System?
The concept is simple and oh-so-effective: pick three native plant species that bloom in each of the three growing seasons—spring, summer, and late summer/fall. This ensures your garden provides a continuous buffet for pollinators throughout the year.
Then, plant three of each species for a total of 27 plants. Why three of each? Grouping plants into clusters makes it easier for insects to spot and access the flowers, ensuring they get plenty of food. It’s a win-win!
How Much Space Do You Need?
Here’s the math: with 27 plants and about one plant per square foot, you’re looking at an 8-foot by 4-foot garden—or something close to that. Of course, you can adjust the size depending on your space.
Tips for Arranging Your Plants
Once you’ve got your plants, it’s time to map out where they’ll go. A few tips to keep things simple:
- Consider height: Place taller plants in the center if it’s an island bed, or at the back if it’s against a fence or wall. Shorter plants go around the edges.
- Play with color and bloom times: Aim for a mix of heights and colors that bloom in waves throughout the seasons—it’ll look stunning and keep the pollinators happy.
- Know your plants: Some species grow in compact clumps, while others sprawl or spread via roots. A quick online search or a peek into plant guides can help you figure out what each plant needs.
Don’t stress too much about getting it perfect. If you change your mind, you can always move things around later. Gardening is all about experimenting and learning as you go.
Don’t Overthink It
Here’s my biggest piece of advice: don’t get bogged down by analysis paralysis. When I planted my first pollinator garden, I spent way too much time overplanning. You don’t have to get everything perfect—just plant, adjust as needed, and enjoy the process.
Need Inspiration?
For sunny spots, consider a mix like this:
Have a shady area? Try this:
Make our pollinator garden both vibrant and relaxing
Pollinator gardens often have a wild, untamed vibe, kind of like a charming cottage garden. But to make ours inviting and easy on the eyes, we added a few thoughtful touches.
First, we grouped plants more intentionally, laid out wooden paths, and even created a defined entrance to give it some structure. Then, we added some “rest stops” for the eyes—areas that break up the plant chaos and add a sense of calm.
Right in the middle of the garden, there’s a small lawn area. It’s like a little breather amidst the busy borders. To add character, we placed carved West African columns there, painted a rich brown that naturally draws your attention.
Along the borders, you’ll find sculpted Japanese hollies (be mindful of their invasive potential if you’re in Zones 4–9), some cozy seating tucked along the pathways, and even clusters of ornamental grasses. These elements act like visual pit stops, giving your eyes—and your brain—a moment to relax.
Looking ahead to next year, we’re making some tweaks. We plan to swap out underperforming plants, add more pollinator favorites, and build more loose stone walls for native bees that nest in dry soil.
We’ll also shuffle some plants around to refine the color palette and textures because, let’s face it, no garden is ever truly “finished”—especially one buzzing with life.
Frequently asked questions
- How can I create a pollinator-friendly garden in a small space?
You don’t need a sprawling yard to make a pollinator paradise. Start small with a few planters on your patio filled with a mix of native blooms and annuals. Got room for a flower bed or veggie patch? Toss in some flowers for a pollinator buffet.
The key is variety—pollinators love diverse options in one spot. As you get more space, you can always add to your garden.
- What happens to pollinators in the winter?
When the cold hits, some butterflies, like monarchs, take off for warmer weather, but most pollinators hunker down close to home. Bees often hide under leaf piles, brush, or in the soil near your garden.
Want to help them out? Skip the fall cleanup—leave those leaves and garden debris until spring. Fun fact: some bees don’t wake up from hibernation until late May, so the longer you wait, the better their chances of survival.
- How do I care for my pollinator garden without harming beneficial insects?
Some traditional gardening habits don’t mix well with a pollinator-friendly approach. For instance, heavy mulching can block native bees from nesting in the soil. If you need to mulch, go for something that breaks down naturally, like composted leaves. Also, avoid digging up the soil—it can disrupt ground-nesting bees’ homes.
When it comes to watering, timing is everything. Aim for early morning or late evening when pollinators are less active, and always water at ground level. Nobody likes an unexpected rain shower, least of all your garden’s buzzing guests!
