Growing fruit trees like apples, pears, cherries, or apricots in your own backyard can be an absolute delight. Imagine the joy of picking a ripe, organic fruit directly from the branch! Yet, cultivating these trees isn’t without its challenges.
They can suffer from pests, diseases, low yields, and nutrient deficiencies—apple trees, in particular, are famously tricky to manage.
But here’s the good news: Despite these hurdles, North Americans are undeterred. Every year, many of us head to our local garden centers, eager to bring home an apple tree, often overlooking the potential difficulties. However, a bit of knowledge can go a long way.
This guide is packed with all the essentials you’ll need to start your apple-growing adventure. From caring for your trees and tackling common problems to ensuring your apples are as juicy as can be, we’ve got you covered. Get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
About Apples
You don’t need a sprawling orchard to grow your own apples—even a modest backyard has room for a couple of dwarf apple trees or a neatly trained apple espalier. For those in central and northern regions, spring is the best time to plant. However, if you’re blessed with mild, moist winters, a fall planting could also thrive.
When choosing where to plant apple trees, climate plays a big role. Hardy apple trees flourish in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 5, while long-season varieties do best in Zones 5 to 8. Not sure of your zone? It’s worth checking out. Local gardening catalogs and your Cooperative Extension Service can offer insights about the best varieties for your locale.
Also, each apple variety requires a certain number of chill hours—temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees F—to bear fruit, with more chill hours needed the further north you are.
Many folks wonder if they can grow apple trees from seeds. While planting a seed from your favorite apple variety is possible, the tree that grows will likely differ from its parent in size, hardiness, and fruit quality.
For instance, a Honeycrisp seed won’t produce Honeycrisp apples. Also, it takes about 8-10 years for a seed-grown tree to start producing, so patience is a must! Nonetheless, it can be a fun gardening project.
Here’s how to plant those apple seeds: they need a stint in cool, moist conditions before they’ll sprout. You can mimic nature by sowing them half an inch deep in the fall, or simulate winter by chilling them in moist sand inside your fridge for a few months before planting.
Growing apples isn’t without its challenges—pests and diseases are common, and organic growing can be particularly tough, especially on the East Coast. It often involves extensive research and a solid strategy for pest control without relying on heavy pesticide use.
Remember, apple trees require a partner for cross-pollination. Planting two different cultivars that bloom at the same time ensures you’ll get a good crop, and don’t forget the importance of bees for pollination.
Just two trees can provide a generous harvest, enough to enjoy fresh and share with friends. And don’t worry about space; most apple trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks and only reach about 8-10 feet tall, so they can fit into smaller gardens just fine.
Getting Ready to Plant Apple Trees
Ideal Planting Times:
- Plant bare-root apple trees early in the spring when you can easily work the soil. These trees are not only more affordable but also offer a wider variety from fruit nurseries, available mainly from October to March.
- You can plant apple trees grown in containers any time during the growing season. Just remember to keep them well-watered, especially during the drier, hotter summer months.
Choosing the Perfect Spot:
- Apple trees thrive in full sunlight, needing at least 8 hours of direct sun daily. When selecting a location, ensure it gets plenty of sunshine.
Soil Quality Check:
- Apple trees are pretty flexible about soil types but avoid areas where water tends to collect. They do best in soils with a pH of 6 to 7.
- Conduct a soil test to check pH levels and ensure there’s no standing water. If the pH isn’t ideal, make amendments based on your test results to create the perfect growing environment.
Site Selection Tips:
- Opt for a spot that offers good air circulation and drainage, essential for keeping diseases at bay.
- Avoid low-lying areas known as frost pockets, where cold air settles, and instead, choose a slightly elevated area to ensure cold air flows away.
- Steer clear of areas near woods or other large trees to prevent shading and competition.
Spacing Your Trees:
- Allow room for growth: Ensure there’s as much space in width as your apple tree will reach in height. For instance, if you expect your tree to grow 8 feet tall, plant it at least 8 feet away from other trees.
- Here’s a quick spacing guide:
- Standard trees need about 20-25 feet between them.
- Semi-dwarf trees require 12-15 feet.
- Dwarf varieties should be spaced about 6-8 feet apart.
Planting Your Apple Tree
Getting ready to plant your apple tree starts with clearing a 4-foot wide circle of any weeds or grass. Once you’ve got your tree, make sure it stays protected from damage, drying out, and extreme temperatures. If the roots have dried, give them a good 24-hour soak in water before you plant.
When choosing where to plant, consider the tree’s rootstock and the soil’s fertility, as these will determine how far apart your trees should be. Standard apple trees usually need 15 to 18 feet of space between them, whereas dwarf varieties can be planted 4 to 8 feet apart.
Remember, apple trees need a buddy to cross-pollinate, so plant a different apple cultivar within 2,000 feet—closer is better—to ensure they blossom at the same time.
Dig a hole that’s about twice the width of the tree’s roots and 2 feet deep. Mix the removed soil on a tarp for easy replacement and add up to one-third compost or peat moss for better growth. It’s crucial not to add any fertilizer at this stage to avoid root damage.
Place your tree in the hole so that the roots are spread out and not bunched up or twisted. Cover them with the excavated soil, pressing down as you fill to avoid air pockets. Make sure the graft union, the bump where the trunk meets the rootstock, is about 4 inches above ground to prevent unwanted rooting that could lead the tree to grow too large.
For trees in containers, check for any roots circling the container and straighten them out or slice through them to encourage a strong, healthy root system and prevent future problems. Once your tree is standing straight, finish filling the hole, tamp down gently, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.
If you notice the soil settling after planting, just top it up. Since dwarf apple trees can topple under heavy fruit loads, think about using a trellis or other support to keep them upright. You can even plant them next to a fence for natural support.
How To Care For Your Apple Trees
Watering
Keeping your apple trees hydrated is key to their growth, especially during dry periods. Aim to give your trees about one inch of water each week, either from rainfall or direct watering, from May through October. This ensures the roots, the lifeline of your trees, receive ample moisture to thrive.
Particularly with young apple trees, which rely on consistent moisture to establish a robust root system, regular watering is crucial. For those on semi-dwarfing or dwarfing rootstocks, it’s even more essential.
In our own orchard, for example, we water our young saplings up to three times a week, delivering around 15 gallons each session due to our clay-rich soil that holds water well. If your garden has sandy soil, you might need to water even more often to maintain moisture levels.
After the first three to four months, you can ease up a bit. By then, your apple trees should be more settled and can do with watering once a week as they begin to draw more water independently.
Mature apple trees are another story. These hardy specimens have extensive root systems that draw significant moisture and nutrients from the ground. Typically, they only need extra watering during prolonged dry spells or intense heat.
It might be tempting to want a one-size-fits-all watering schedule, but the truth is, it varies by environment. While I can’t pinpoint the exact needs for every scenario, I can offer a couple of tips to optimize your watering technique:
- Focus on the roots: Water the soil around the roots rather than the trunk, branches, or leaves, which could promote fungal diseases and wood rot. Skip the sprinklers and opt for a soaker hose or hand watering to target the root zone effectively.
- Water deeply but not too often: Allow deep water penetration and then let the soil dry out between sessions. This method encourages healthier root growth and prevents issues like root rot, ensuring your apple trees get just the hydration they need without overdoing it.
Read The Guide To Crafting an Olla for Water-Efficient Gardening
Support
Giving your apple trees a strong start is key! For the first few years, it’s wise to stake your tree to help it stand straight and strong. You can use either a wooden or metal stake, making sure it’s tall enough to match the tree’s height after driving it two feet into the soil.
When tying the tree to the stake, opt for a wide, soft material to avoid any damage to the bark—narrow options like wire or twine could dig in and harm the tree.
Training is crucial for developing a robust branch structure, especially for apple trees that will eventually bear the weight of heavy fruit. For dwarf varieties, a trellis or posts are necessary, along with training them to grow with a central leader. Larger standard or semi-dwarf trees thrive with a modified leader system.
Don’t forget about tree guards when you plant! These handy protectors, typically plastic and easy to find at your local nursery or online, shield the trunk from cold injuries and pests like voles and rabbits. They also fend off sunscald by reflecting sunlight.
This condition occurs when the bark warms and the underlying water thaws, then refreezes rapidly as temperatures drop, which can be damaging. Once your tree matures and develops a rugged, flaky bark, it becomes resistant to these threats, making tree guards unnecessary. Until then, protecting your young tree’s trunk is essential for its health and vitality.
Fertilizer and mulch
Just like us, apple trees need their version of a balanced diet to thrive. They pull nutrients from the soil, which fuels their growth and helps them produce delicious, nutritious fruit. Neglecting to feed your apple tree properly might lead to lackluster fruit, or worse, no fruit at all.
Many new apple growers either don’t fertilize enough or use potent fertilizers found at garden centers, which can sometimes do more harm than good. These products might not suit your specific soil conditions and can damage both your tree and its environment.
That’s why I recommend keeping it simple with nutrient-rich mulch as the best fertilizer for apple trees. Just spread it around the base each spring, and you’ll nourish the tree without the risk of overfertilizing.
Once your tree is comfortably settled in nutrient-rich soil and a good location, it usually needs minimal additional fertilization. Just top up the mulch now and then, making sure to keep it away from the trunk to prevent rot and deter rodents.
Typically, the only nutrient you need to add yearly is nitrogen, which you can easily supply with compost. Keep an eye on the growth rate of your apple tree’s branches: young, non-fruit-bearing trees should grow about 12 to 18 inches annually, while fruit-bearing branches will grow 8 to 12 inches.
If your tree grows more vigorously than this, skip the compost to avoid excessive growth that could hinder fruit development and increase susceptibility to diseases like fireblight.
Here’s a tip for applying mulch: in the early spring, lay down two inches of compost or an inch of well-rotted manure, extending it to the drip line of the tree’s canopy. Make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the trunk to prevent disease and pest issues.
Think of your mulch application as forming a donut shape around the tree’s base—the trunk is the hole, with a clear space of about six inches before the mulch starts.
Stay away from nutrient spikes and synthetic fertilizers. Over-fertilization can irreversibly spoil the soil and potentially kill your tree. Instead, monitor your tree’s health and growth, and consider soil testing every few years to tailor your fertilization practices. This approach will help maintain a healthy, fruitful apple tree.
If you find you need something different, options like leaf mulch, bio-fertilizers, and dehydrated chicken manure are also worth considering.
Pruning Apple Trees
Pruning is crucial if you’re steering clear of chemicals in your apple orchard. It not only keeps your trees in top health but also wards off pests and diseases naturally. Here’s why you should keep your pruning tools handy:
- Boost Tree Health: Pruning enhances air flow through the branches, creating conditions unfavorable for pests and fungal infections, which prefer dark, moist environments.
- Ensure Even Sunlight Exposure: Regular pruning ensures every branch gets its share of sunlight, crucial for the even ripening and coloring of your apples.
- Build a Strong Framework: Proper pruning techniques help develop a robust structure, supporting fewer but stronger branches that can bear heavy fruit loads without breaking.
- Start Right Away: Begin pruning the day you plant your tree to set the foundation for healthy growth.
- Care for Mature Trees: Older trees require gentle, gradual pruning to restore vitality.
For young trees, go easy on pruning to avoid slowing their growth. Instead of heavy cutting, you can:
- Rub off misplaced buds early.
- Temporarily tie down stems to encourage branching and fruiting.
Once your tree matures, prune annually to maintain its shape and size. Remember, more mature trees need a more thorough pruning. Here are a few tips:
- Prune during dormancy.
- Remove vigorous, upright stems and weak twigs.
- Manage droopy or overcrowded branches to rejuvenate the tree’s fruiting potential.
General Pruning Tips:
- Always remove diseased or dead branches.
- Eliminate branches that grow downward or cross each other.
- Keep the tree’s trunk clear of any large branches and suckers.
- Make precise cuts close to the branch collar to avoid damaging the tree.
By pruning your apple trees each year in late winter or early spring, you promote healthier, more productive trees. This practice helps maintain the desired shape and ensures optimal fruit quality by facilitating better sunlight penetration and air circulation within the canopy.
If you inherit an old, neglected apple tree, don’t despair. With a bit of strategic pruning, you can gradually restore its glory and boost its yield.
Training young trees
When you’re shaping young trees, it’s not just about trimming; training the branches is key too. Training involves gently bending the younger, pliable branches from a vertical growth pattern to a more horizontal one, ideally at about a 60-degree angle from the main trunk.
This approach varies with the type of apple tree—some naturally grow branches at the perfect angle, while others shoot straight up and need more guidance.
Positioning branches at this 60-degree angle isn’t just for looks—it actually helps slow down leaf and branch overgrowth while boosting fruit production. Vertical branches tend to grow fast and furious, but they’re less productive when it comes to fruits and more prone to snapping under the weight.
On the other hand, branches with wider angles at their joints are stronger and can handle the heft of the harvest much better.
Avoid flattening the branches completely; they should still arc upwards slightly. If a branch is in the right spot but too upright, you can insert a “spreader” (a simple tool like a notched stick available at garden centers) to widen the angle without damaging the tree.
For really young branches, those under six inches, try using a wooden spring-type clothespin:
- Attach the clothespin to the main leader of the branch.
- Slot the tender shoot between the clothespin’s ends to guide its growth.
- Adjust the clothespin along the leader to perfect the angle. Make sure to remove any spreaders once the growing season wraps up to avoid any unintended harm to the tree as it matures.
Thinning Apples
If you’ve got an apple tree and the blooming conditions are just right, you’re in for a treat—an abundant apple harvest! However, it’s normal for some apples to fall off around mid-June.
Even then, the tree might still be overloaded, which can lead to what’s known as biennial bearing. This means one year, you’ll see a massive bunch of small, underdeveloped apples, and the next year, hardly any.
To prevent this and to boost the size and quality of your apples, thinning them by hand is the way to go. Here’s how you can do it:
- Aim to keep just one or two apples per flower cluster or space them out about 4 to 6 inches apart on each branch for the best quality.
- The best time to thin is when the apples are about the size of a marble, typically in late June or early July, after the tree has naturally shed some of its fruit.
- Regular thinning not only enhances the apples’ quality by fall but also ensures a more consistent annual yield.
While apple trees often lose some fruit naturally during the spring, taking extra steps post-drop can ward off diseases and pests. Thinning to one apple per cluster or maintaining a 6 to 8 inches gap between the fruits after this natural drop can make a big difference.
It might seem tough to pluck these potential apples, but this tactic balances out your harvests, prevents limb damage from excess weight, and guarantees tastier, larger apples. After the initial fruit set, it’s also a good idea to remove the smallest or damaged fruits, keeping about four inches between those left on the tree.
Managing pests and diseases
Keeping your apple tree flourishing and loaded with fruit means staying ahead of any pests and diseases it might face throughout its life. It’s crucial to nip these issues in the bud early because once they spread, they become much harder to manage.
Start by familiarizing yourself with common apple tree ailments. Some you might encounter include apple scab, canker, fire blight, and pests like apple maggots and codling moths, among others. The good news? Once you know what signs to look for, managing these issues organically can be straightforward.
For instance, some diseases can be halted by simply pruning affected areas. Other issues may be preventable with organic anti-fungal sprays, and certain pests can be kept at bay with a yearly application of the right dormant oil.
When it comes to pest control, timing is everything. It’s essential to apply any treatments during specific stages of your apple tree’s bloom and fruit development—never by the calendar alone.
This careful timing helps protect bees and ensures effective pollination. If you prefer to steer clear of pesticides, there are natural alternatives, like enclosing each apple in a paper bag, although this method is labor-intensive.
Remember, seeing some damage doesn’t spell disaster. Apple trees are quite prolific, and a few nibbled fruits don’t mean a total loss. In fact, apples that have been slightly damaged by insects can still be enjoyed after cutting away the affected parts.
For managing diseases, the most straightforward prevention method is to plant varieties resistant to common diseases like apple scab and fire blight. Keeping the area around your apple trees clean—free of fallen leaves, fruit, and debris—is another effective strategy.
For specific diseases like apple scab, look for early signs on the leaves and control it by keeping the area clean and using organic fungicides if necessary.
Fire blight can be a bit trickier, presenting as a bacterial infection that might kill shoots and even whole trees. Preventative steps include choosing resistant varieties, ensuring good air circulation around your tree, and maintaining cleanliness.
If fire blight does appear, it’s critical to prune infected areas promptly and disinfect your tools to prevent the disease from spreading.
Lastly, wildlife and seasonal issues like winter damage or sunburn can also impact your apple trees. Protect young trees from animals with guards and manage environmental stress with strategies suited to your climate.
For example, white plastic guards can prevent sunscald during winter, while pruning damaged branches can help the tree recover from events like hail.
Harvesting and storing apples
Harvesting fruit
When it’s time to harvest apples, color isn’t the only clue to their ripeness. True ripeness is marked by a blend of the apple’s size, color, and sweetness. While there’s a common belief that some late-ripening varieties need a frost to become sweeter, apples actually mature and increase in sweetness all on their own.
When to Harvest Apples
Patience is key when harvesting apples to ensure you pick them at their best. Here’s how you can tell they’re ready:
- Timing: Different varieties ripen at different times, stretching the apple season from August to October.
- Color Check: Harvest apples when their underlying color shifts from green. This part of the apple’s skin, hidden from the sun, should start turning a yellowish-green as it ripens.
- Easy Does It: The apple should easily come off the branch with a gentle lift and twist of your hand—no yanking needed.
- Taste Test: If you’re unsure, pick a few and taste them. This will confirm whether they’ve reached your preferred level of ripeness.
- Starch to Sugar: As apples ripen, their starch converts to sugar. A ripe apple may be slightly tart, but it will be sweet and aromatic, without leaving a sticky residue on your teeth.
- Multiple Picks: You might need to harvest apples from the same tree several times within a week or two to catch them all at the ideal stage.
How to Pick an Apple Properly
- Technique: Hold the apple in your palm, gently lift, and twist in one fluid motion.
- Alternative Method: Use one hand to stabilize the fruiting spur and the other to twist and lift the apple gently.
- Be Gentle: Avoid pulling hard to prevent damaging the spur, which could affect next year’s growth.
Storing Apples Effectively
Did you know that your fridge is actually the best spot for keeping apples fresh? They thrive in cool temperatures, ideally between 33°F and 38°F, paired with about 85 percent humidity. While you might consider the garage, basement, or a classic root cellar, none beat the controlled environment of your refrigerator for extending an apple’s shelf life.
Here’s the scoop: apples kept near 33°F can last almost ten times longer than those left out at room temperature. However, fridges tend to be a bit dry, so to keep your apples plump and prevent them from shriveling, pop them in a perforated plastic bag or a container with a loose lid.
Sure, apples look great in a fruit bowl on your counter, but they won’t stay fresh for long in such warm conditions.
When it comes to choosing which apples to store, opt for mid- or late-season varieties. Early-season apples are more of a eat-them-while-you-pick-them kind of fruit. Mid-season ones should last a few weeks, whereas late-season apples can stay crisp for up to five months in a root cellar.
It’s crucial to only store apples that are in perfect condition; even a small bruise can become a gateway for rot.
For optimal storage, wrap each apple individually in newspaper or tissue paper and arrange them on trays to allow air circulation. If you prefer not to wrap them, make sure they don’t touch each other. Remember, different varieties have different lifespans, so keep them separate and use the shorter-lasting ones first.
Choose a storage space that’s cool, dark, and well-ventilated—think garage or shed, rather than an attic or basement where conditions can be too extreme. Keep an eye on your stored apples, discarding any that start to go soft, brown, or show signs of rotting.
Concerned about freezing temperatures? Apples begin to freeze at about 28-28.5°F, but they can usually withstand a brief dip below this threshold without serious damage. However, prolonged exposure to sub-28°F temps increases the risk of spoilage.
If apples do freeze, don’t pick them until they’ve thawed; otherwise, they’ll bruise and spoil. Post-freeze, it’s best to leave the apples on the tree until midday thawing and use them quickly, as their storage potential drops significantly.
Apple varieties to grow
The first time I bit into a Honeycrisp apple, it was a game-changer—they’re simply the best! Big, crunchy, and sweet, they’re a slice of heaven. However, growing Honeycrisp apples at home can be quite the challenge.
These trees are especially prone to a condition known as bitter pit, which leaves the apples with spongy, spotted, and bitter flesh. Even seasoned orchard owners struggle with this issue.
And Honeycrisp isn’t the only tricky apple variety; others also face threats from diseases like fire blight, apple scab, and powdery mildew, which can all compromise the health and productivity of your trees. Typically, commercial growers combat these diseases with heavy, often harmful, chemical sprays.
So, what can an organic or home gardener do? First, check out the local area before planting. You’ll need a pollen source within 100 feet to ensure successful pollination. If there aren’t any nearby crabapple or apple trees, consider planting two different varieties.
When you buy an apple tree, you’re getting a graft of two different plants: the scion, which is the fruit-bearing part above ground, and the rootstock, which dictates the tree’s size and how quickly it will start fruiting.
To manage diseases better and cut down on chemical use, opt for resistant varieties like ‘Liberty’, ‘Jonafree’, ‘Macfree’, and ‘Williams Pride’. These not only ease maintenance but also thrive in northern climates.
Choosing the right rootstock is crucial. It can range from ‘standard’, which yields a full-sized tree, to ‘dwarfing’, which makes for easier care and harvest. For colder zones, the Bud 9 is a solid choice, while the M9 is popular but may struggle in extreme cold.
Purchase dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old nursery trees with healthy root systems. Depending on the size, trees can bear fruit in as little as 3 years, producing 1 to 2 bushels annually, while standard trees take longer but yield more.
Select apple varieties based on the fruit characteristics, bloom times, and pollen compatibility. Include good pollinators like ‘Grimes Golden’, ‘Golden Delicious’, ‘Red Delicious’, or ‘Winter Banana’ for best fruiting results. Some varieties can self-pollinate, but you’ll get a bigger harvest with cross-pollination.
Also, think about how you want to use your apples. Whether for baking delicious pies or just enjoying a fresher taste than store-bought, choose varieties that suit your culinary needs. If you’re a fan of ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’ pies, you might need several trees to meet your baking needs.
For those without a specific plan, planting a mix of varieties that ripen throughout the season can keep your apple supply varied and abundant. Lastly, seek local experts’ advice and plan your orchard from the comfort of your home with a stack of nursery catalogs to guide you.
Frequently asked questions
Can I take hardwood cuttings from an apple tree?
Apple trees are typically propagated through grafting, not cuttings. This is because apple seeds don’t reliably produce the same fruit, and cuttings alone struggle to root effectively.
The most common method involves grafting a cutting onto a rootstock, which helps manage the tree’s growth. Popular grafting techniques include whip-and-tongue grafting during late winter or early spring, and chip budding from mid-summer to early autumn.
Is it possible to relocate a young apple tree in spring?
Yes, you can move a young apple tree late in winter or early in spring, while it’s still dormant and before the buds start to open. Young trees tend to handle the stress of moving better than older, more established ones.
Can apple tree cuttings root in water?
While you might be tempted to root apple tree cuttings in water, they actually perform better in a moist soil-like medium. However, grafting is generally the preferred method for propagating apple trees, as direct rooting is more commonly successful with fruit bushes like currants.
What should I do if a large apple tree falls?
If a large apple tree falls but still has roots in the ground, you might be able to save it. Make sure to cover any exposed roots with soil and prune any damaged branches to keep the area safe. With some care and a bit of luck, the tree might just thrive in its new situation.
Did You Know?
- Johnny Appleseed Day is celebrated on September 26th, honoring John Chapman, the legendary pioneer who introduced apple trees across the American Frontier.
- Apples paired with aged cheeses can help reduce tooth plaque.
- There’s an old proverb that says, “A bad woman can’t make good applesauce.”
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